Easter at Chez Gypsy, by Chef B: green salad topped with seared duck breast, truffled potatoes & mushrooms, sometimes it's the simplest of meals that make the most memorable moments.

It's often just the two of us for dinner, the adorable three year old in our lives has a limited (but expanding) palate and we frequently entertain but largely it's meals for two, in His kitchen or My kitchen.  Coming from different cultures and creating a new life together, we often discuss family traditions and holiday memories, keeping what works and setting the rest aside, creating our own (new) traditions.

My West Coast Canadian roots and lack of structured religion in my nuclear family made for very simple Easter celebrations, long on ham and chocolate and short on piety and sermons.  Hors d'oeuvres consisted of deviled eggs, a by-product of childhood art projects, made with store bought white eggs.  Mom often indulged us with a batch of Hot Cross Buns and Dad thrilled to lead the hunt for Easter treats complete with treasure maps, compasses and clues.  This is the Easter I know.

The Chef in my life grew up just outside Dijon, in Burgundy, France (yes, the place where they make the mustard).  This Easter he called home, aligning family members for the weekly Skype chat and caught them napping, at 3PM (French time) after a big Easter lunch.  Later that evening, while he chopped mushrooms and par-boiled potatoes, I asked what an Easter meal in Burgundy might entail.

The correct term for what you see here is Duck Magret, not Duck Breast. The Magret is from the Mulard duck, which is force fed, thus the creamy fat.

"To start we would usually have rabbit, cold... like in a terrine.  We don't have the Easter Bunny in France and so there's no attachment to rabbits, it's just another meat" Chef B says as he quickly scores the fatty side of the duck breast with a sharp knife, in a criss-cross pattern  and places it fat side down in a oven-friendly pan over medium high heat.  While the fat sizzles on the back burner, he removes the potatoes after about 3 minutes at a boil, runs them under cold water, then drains them on paper towel and sets them aside.

The duck fat begins to colour, he flips it over, drenching the lean meat in the fat to ensure it keeps it's moisture and seals in all those beautiful juices.   This takes only a couple of minutes then he turns it back over, fatty side down, and pops it into a 425* oven for about 12 minutes, turning back to his mise en place, his wine, and his story.

"There would be another cold course, usually fish.  When my Grandmother [Chef Georgette] was alive, we would poach a whole salmon, and it would be served with cold langoustines, homemade mayonnaise, and perhaps another seafood."  He coursely chops some mushrooms, a shallots or two, a clove of garlic, a bit of parsley and produces the last of the Porcini Black Truffle Pate from the fridge.

He opens another bottle of wine, and adds "then there's the hot appetizer..."   He removes the duck from the oven, turns it fat side up, again drenching the meat in the duck fat before setting it to rest, fat side down, off the heat (for about 15 minutes).

Of course, he kept the precious duck fat, he is after all, French.

The now cool, dry, half-cooked potatoes get tossed into the waiting, hot duck fat, seasoned and the pan returned to the 425* oven for about 10 minutes.  Chef B turns to the plates, now set on the table and lays a bed of dry Romain leaves across and grabs he new favorite sun-dried tomato vinaigrette.

He continues, "the hot appetizer would be served in a puff pastry shells, probably sweetbreads, escargots and rooster combs cooked in a cream sauce, like a stew."   Rooster combs?  Yes, the red, floppy thing on the top of the head of the rooster, he says they're delicious.  (It's a French thing.)

The potatoes emerge from the oven, a generous portion of the clear duck fat is removed and then the pan in returned to the top of the stove on medium heat and in go the mushrooms for a toss and a sizzle.

"The main course is usually roasted poultry, sometimes goose or duck but usually capon [a castrated rooster]..."  he says, seasoning the pan with a liberal twist of pepper and reserved dash of salt, as shallots and the thinly sliced garlic join the medley "...and a salad."

He waves the aroma of the dish towards him, breathing deeply, an appreciative gesture; after 25 years in the kitchen his nose is as usful as his palate in the flavouring of dishes.  He pokes at a potato with a knife, checking its doneness, and after turning the duck breast in the remaining fat one last time, he returns it to the oven at 425* for about 5 minutes to warm through.

"The last course would be cheese, followed by spirits to aid the digestion" he concludes, taking the last tablespoon of the precious Porcini Black Truffle Pate and swirling it with a splash of water in the jar, adding that slurry to the now full pan, with a generous pinch of parsley.

The duck is removed from the oven to the cutting board, where it's sliced.  He drizzles a touch of the tomato vinaigrette on the waiting lettuce and spoons the loose, fragrant truffled potatoes and mushrooms over top, then tops the whole works with the warm, rare duck.  Voila, Seared Duck Breast, Truffled Potatoes & Mushrooms --- the combination is cold and hot, earthy and savory, tangy and slightly gamy.

He tops his glass, and mine, and sits down grinning to see my somewhat gobsmacked expression across the table "what?!" he asks, as if defending the culinary obsession of hundreds of years of French history.  "YOU DON'T HAVE THE EASTER BUNNY IN FRANCE?!"  I said.

I am, forever, five years old.

A Molecular Valentine from the Chef in my life.  This Valentine's Day instead of posting yet another red velvet cupcake, we decided to let Food Gypsy Technical Advisor, Chef B, loose with some food science to breakdown a few elements for you to try in your kitchen.

We call this sultry little appetizer From Russia with Love; smoked salmon with a potato salad in a light, grainy mustard dressing, grapefruit caviar, borscht jelly, asparagus sprouts, borscht spaghetti and a beet foam.

Molecular gastronomy is science and food taken to a whole new level.  Cooking has always been about science, the application of heat, cold, acid, fat, moisture, flavour, colour, texture and spice; understanding the properties of an ingredient and using techniques to achieve a desired result. Molecular gastronomy takes us several steps further into the world of beakers and Bunsen burners and opens up new methods, artistic possibilities and ways to experience food.

Several of our readers have expressed an interest in molecular cuisine, so we thought we might start with a plate that combines molecular applications along with some recognizable elements, to take the mystery out of molecular gastronomy.

Using three easy molecular processes, we've taken a relativity simple set of ingredients to a rather extraordinary result using the techniques of Gelification, Spherification and Emulsification.  

Gelification: the process of turning a liquid into gel which is a solid, jelly-like material that can have properties ranging from soft and weak to hard and tough.

In this application we used the additive Agar Agar to form the flat jellied disks, and borscht spaghetti you see here.

Agar Agar is not new; it's derived from a polysaccharide that accumulates in the cell walls of red algae and is often used in Asian desserts and as a vegetarian gelatin substitute.  Yes... it's seaweed. Many different kinds of seaweed (such as Irish Moss) have been used as thickening agents for hundreds of years in cuisine. Now Agar Agar is available in a powdered form for convenience and more accurate measurements.

Chef B combined Agar Agar with the clarified juices of that great big, beety, meaty borscht we made last week, then he took the (now) thickening liquid and pushed it through hallow tubing, chilled the whole works in ice water, removed it from the tubing by forcing air through and TA DA --- Borscht Spaghetti.

The remainder, we set in the bottom of a low, flat bowl, and he later cut and used it as a jelly base on the plate for colour, texture and structure.

Spherification: the culinary process of shaping a liquid into spheres which visually and texturally resembles caviar.

The delicate pink spheres of grapefruit juice you see, perched on the smoked salmon, were the result of adding Agar Agar to grapefruit juice, bringing it to a boil then dropping it, drop-by-drop, into ice cold oil.

The oil was chilled for almost two hours in the freezer, Chef B found he needed to drop five droplets, one on top of the other, to get the right size and to allow the liquid to sink into the oil and form a beautiful, delicate ball.  The only way to determine just what worked best was with a little  experimentation.

This is not Chef B's first experience with molecular cuisine; in his time with Le Cordon Bleu, he was privileged to see the grandfather of molecular cuisine himself, Hervé This, in action.  Since then he's used several molecular kits in the kitchen and often uses foams and jellies in his cuisine.

"Each molecular kit is a bit different, each brand of additive (e.g. Agar Agar) I've used has been slightly different in their results, just like different brands of peanut butter taste different.  I find l have to play a bit to know how I can use each, and how far I can stretch it to get the results I'm looking for.

When you're using molecular elements it's important to have a plan.  I can take any five ingredients and make you a meal conventionally, it will look good and it will taste good. With molecular cuisine you have to think in terms of how each element will play, how the plate will look, and how the ingredients, in each form, work together, and then you have to find the harmony.

It's like moving from a rock band to the Royal Philharmonic... "  ~ Chef B

Emulsification: the process of turning a liquid into a light air foam.

The additive involved with this technique is Soy Lecithin, which we added to stabilize the whipped beet juice into a standing beet foam. Lecithin is an oily substance that occurs naturally in the plant (soybeans) and animals (egg yolks) world.

Soy lecithin is a common food additive that you've no doubt seen on many labels. It's extracted from soybeans as a by-product of soybean oil production.  Soy lecithin is one very popular emulsifier and it's easy to use; simply add it to a liquid, whip to a foam and allow to stand for five minutes before plating.

A foam is a beautiful way to handle a sauce or a finishing element on a savory dish, in a dessert or a on a cocktail.  It has an almost explosive effect on the pallet, the air carries the flavor up to the sinuses and heightens the pleasure of the moment.

Everything else you see is very simple,  a rose of smoked salmon formed by rolling the salmon gently by hand and palming it as needed, to form the base and petals.  A light potato salad with chive, mayo and a grainy Dijon dressing was ring formed on top of a round of borscht jelly.  You also see drops of the dressing on the plate for added texture and flavour.

A fresh dash of asparagus spouts is positioned artfully under the salmon and on top of the potato salad. This gives the plate structure and texture. Then the rose is finished with delicate beads of grapefruit.

I'll be honest, without Chef B in the Gypsy Kitchen, this is something I never would have considered doing, but after watching the processes and plate come together (like a masterpiece), it gave me new ideas and took all the fear out of experimenting with molecular elements. 

I'd like to try it myself, I'll start small... with a cocktail or a dessert. I envision suspended drops of something, likely booze.  

But how does it taste?

In our time together in the kitchen I learned a great deal about the properties of various liquids and new textures and applications, but what I did not expect to learn was a new way to eat.

Eating molecular is about involving all the elements at once, like a complicated piece of music, if is not meant to be dissected, it's meant to be held in symphony.  The way this worked against my palate was surprising, like giving my mouth a new way to taste.  In many ways it was startling, something firm that is usually soupy, something smooth and round that explodes with citrus tang against your tongue, all backed by a smokey, fatty fish.

It made me stop and breathe between bites because that was the best way to ready my senses for a fresh onslaught of flavour.  I've never experienced food in quite this way before and that, in itself, makes molecular gastronomy worth the science.

More molecular for you to chew on, resources and recommended reading:

Kitchen Mysteries: Revealing the Science of Cooking (Arts and Traditions of the Table: Perspectives on Culinary History) by Hervé This

This is the original chemist of molecular cuisine, and his Kitchen Mysteries is essential reading for any serious food craft-er.  Science geek that I am, I love this book and often gift it (to fellow food geeks) because I find pleasure in knowing how (and why) things work.

If you're interested in playing with a few molecular elements in your kitchen, invest in a small home kit like the CUISINE R-EVOLUTION kit available on line from molecule-r.com.  Under $80 it comes with five additives, some specialized equipment like syringes and tubing and a very easy to follow along instructional DVD.

Personally, this was just my speed, it was almost idiot proof and had some great ideas for future applications.  If you're new to molecular, this could be a whole lot of fun without a steep investment.

For the serious among you, and those pursuing a career in the kitchen, check out Infusions 4 Chefs and their range of products and demo materials.  Including their line of El Bulli products, just because it's (currently) closed doesn't mean we can't learn from Ferran Adrià! 

May your Valentine's Day be filled with love... and all its elements.

A little something interesting for Valentine's Day with our Up Your Skirt Dessert; a reconstructed creme brulee, strawberry carpaccio, a dash of chocolate and a pair of edible gams.  What?  You were expecting cupcakes?!

From time to time I let the chef in my life loose in the kitchen.  When I want to stretch and try something new, I look at a recipe I've never approached before, something I've only enjoyed in restaurants or bakeries.  It forces my brain to adapt, overcome challenges that my arise and find solutions.  Sometimes it's a booming success, other times it goes straight into the compost.

After 20 plus years in the kitchen, Chef B's version of stretching is a little different from mine.  "Let's do something FUN!" he says, and so we strategize, borrow ideas and plan and I watch in awe as he experiments.

It was fun... and sometimes frustrating... but the result is rather fabulous.

This sweet ending was inspired by a page in "Grand Finales, The Art of The Plated Dessert" that features this stunning photo, that inspired Chef B and we thought it might be fun to show you something a little more entertaining.   In the original version shown in this photos, the final height was almost a foot tall.  We downsized to create an intimate, feminine design that's fun and sassy.

Love is in the air and up your skirt.

Chef B's Up Your Skirt Dessert is not nearly as complicated as it looks.  The creamy dome you see on the bottom is a simple creme brulee, cooked and cooled but rather than covering it with caramel, Chef Benoit took that beautiful, soft custard and combined it with gelatin for a firm texture we could build on, re-molded and chilled.

The creme brulee recipe, which we featured earlier this week, it's perfect just as it is; no need to go all fancy-shamcy, but if you want to try something completly different, follow along step by step.

Re-Molded Creme Brulee Recipe

1 envelope gelatin
1/4 cup milk
1/4 cup water
2 ramekins creme brulee

Method

Combine gelatin, milk and water in a sauce pan over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, whisking occasionally.  Remove from heat, allow to cool for about 3 minutes, add creme brulee custard and blend until smooth.  Immediately re-mold and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

We used silicone molds so it was easy to unmold the final product.

The shirt is a simple caramel basket.  Caramel = melted sugar.  As it browns it turns amber and gets thick and gooey.  He then applied a little oil to the back of a stainless steel ladle (because it was about the right size we were looking for) and thinly drizzled the caramel to create this sexy little basket.

You could use this in a number of applications; under berries or to hold a mousse or meringue or, cast the caramel in flat sheet on a piece of parchment, break or cut it into interesting shapes and accent a gorgeous cake, a poached pear.  This is something to have a lot of fun with and use on it's own.

A couple of parameters to keep in mind, being made of sugar, it melts when it comes in contact with liquid, so if you're using hardened caramel in an application with any humidity (I.e: berries) plate and serve fast before it starts to wilt.  It's also HOT to work with so use caution hot caramel will burn your skin.  (Not a project to do with young children.)

The strawberry carpaccio is as easy as a dash of grainy vanilla and sugar on some thinly sliced strawberries.  Plate with some forethought, balance colour and texture.  Use the sweetened, coloured juice as an accent, like you see on the top plate.

The silky chocolate drizzle,  is merely melted chocolate (in a parchment paper piping bag) applied directly to the plate.  Accents around the creme brulee; also tiny, well placed, drops of chocolate.

The curvy calves were a whole lot more work.  Part tech; scanning the patten, resizing in photoshop, printing, cutting out a positive then transferring to a thicker card-stock for a negative that became our stencil, and part pastry chef; executing the stencil with clean edges, baking to perfection, removing cleanly without breaking and then assembling and placing them perfectly.  I'm exhausted just writing that.

The thin, transparent cookie dough is called Tuile, it's a spreadable batter that molds easily, is completely edible and very breakable.  Not sure if I will ever stencil with tuile again, effective but fussy.  Best to work with it when it's cold, it spreads more evenly that way and it cooks in minutes, so watch it like a hawk.

This element was the cause of much frustration, we baked several pairs of cookie legs; prepped the one you see above with a dab of chocolate to secure them to a toothpick, for shooting purposes.  We knew that the cookie would start to melt as it it came in contact with humidity and then droop, so we added the toothpick give me more time with the camera, plus another drop at the knee, to help keep them straight.

They broke as they were being placed, but my guy does not give up so easily.  He re-attached and adapted.

Credit where credit is due, Chef B had the patience of a saint, and the end result truly is stunning.  A risque little dessert.  What can I say, he's a food genius.

Chef B carefully constructs the final product. The three dark drops you see under the basket are also chocolate, to help hold it in place.

Chocolate Tuile Recipe (from allrecipes.com)

1/2 cup butter, softened
1 cup confectioners' sugar
1/4 teaspoon of salt
4 egg whites
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup cake flour
5 tablespoons cocoa powder

A closeup so you can see the elements in greater detail...

Consider this your personal guide to caviar with Chef Benoit Gelinotte's Do's and Dont's or, as I like to call it; The Gospel of Caviar According to Chef B.

Ever try caviar? I'm a new convert myself (where I'm from fish eggs are called bait).  Luckily I have a talented Chef de Cuisine in my life to take me by the hand and guide me, and now, so do you.  Often we try things without the benefit of good advice and then wonder why we're so underwhelmed.  That is the experience many first timers have with caviar; there they stand with a jar of very expensive fish roe in hand saying "what's the big deal?"

It's easy to get something very wrong if you don't know how to do it right.

That was Chef B's first experience with caviar too.  On vacation in Argeles Sur Mer, in the south of France as a young chef-in-training and he was staggered by the local fish market.  Traveling (regrettably) by train he was determined to drag four 2-pound lobsters, a dozen French sardines, two whole fish and a jar of caviar --- on ice --- all the way to home to Dijon.  "I was 21 years old and wanted to impress, and at the time my general rule was: expensive equals good.  So I HAD to have caviar and, I was not impressed."

How did Chef B convert to the caviar aficionado he is today?  

"Over the last 25 years working in restaurants [some] with Michelin Star status, you get the occasional sneak-preview of special jars leaving the kitchen; properly iced, perfectly preserved, precisely served.  Then you begin to appreciate not only the taste of each, but the different colours, the unique properties and the LUXURY of the time honored tradition that is caviar."

Iranian Sevruga Caviar

A Brief History of Caviar

There is a tradition surrounding the Caspian Sea for hundreds, if not thousands, of years that has come to represent one of our planet's most luxurious foods.  Simply put, caviar is sieved and lightly salted Sturgeon roe. The primary types of caviar are Beluga, Sterlet, Ossetra (Imperial Ossetra & Karaburun Ossetra) and Sevruga.

The rarest and most expensive is the beluga sturgeon caviar, primarily imported from Russia & Iran.  Not only is it rare and expensive, it's taboo: beluga is protected as a threatened species under the Endangered Species Act.

Caviar Economics

Where there's trade, there will be enterprise and caviar has welcomed several new producers over the last 25 years; France, the United States and Canada have all stepped up production of caviar.  Species of sturgeon can live as long as 100 years, and cannot begin to be caviar harvested until they are ten years old; it will be interesting to see how quality develops as farming continues.  Still, good quality local caviar can be enjoyed by those willing to indulge.

Depending on specific national laws (and the liberal misuse of culinary terminology), the name "caviar" may also be used to describe other fish roes such as salmon, steelhead, trout, whitefish and other species of sturgeon such as paddlefish and shortnose.  Your local supermarket might also carry something they call lumpfish caviar.  These are eggs from unknown providence, ink dyed and then labeled caviar.

Let's do a little caviar cost breakdown:

• Imperial Ossetra (Iranian)- $340 /50g (2 oz)
• Paddlefish (American) - $80 /50g (2 oz)
• Shortnose (Canadian) - $95 /50g (2oz)
• Lumpfish (Not known) - $8 /100g (3.5 oz)

The perfect bite

Caviar & Where to Start

"So," I ask Chef B "should the novice start with lumpfish then?"

His eyes get big and buggy "don't even waste your money on lumpfish, it will ruin you for LIFE.  Instead, if you're a first time caviar buyer start with a decent local caviar in small quantities.  You can get serving sizes as small as 25g (1oz)  That way if you don't like it, no big deal"  he shrugs.  

"Of course if you DO like it, it's a slippery slope!"

Caviar essentials: crushed ice, mother of pearl spoons, fresh blinis, finely chopped hard boiled egg, smoked (Coho) salmon and champagne.

Caviar Do's & Dont's

Classic caviar service is simple and elegant. When in doubt let your keyword be luxury and your watchword be neutral.

DO keep caviar refrigerated until ready to serve. Ideally we nestle the entire jar in a bed of crushed ice, with the lid alongside.  This is not only attractive, but also informative to your guests.  Chilling the caviar also tones down the salt and keeps it smooth.

DO accompany caviar with fresh Blinis.  Tiny, yeast risen pancakes (seen here, recipe for French Blinis on Food Gypsy), they are the perfect foil to caviar; light and delicate  "Like tiny little Louis Vuitton caviar pillows" says Chef B.   "In a pinch, toast points will do" he makes a face "and boiled fingerling potatoes.  Think neutral taste, you don't want to overwhelm the key ingredient."

DO use traditional condiments such as chopped hard boiled egg yolks, egg whites, chives, crème fraiche, sour cream, capers, shallots and smoked sturgeon or salmon.  In the case of salmon, Chef  recommends smoked Pacific salmon, as when smoked, Pacific holds its moisture and fat content better than Atlantic.

DO serve with the appropriate beverage; ice cold vodka or aquavit (served at 1*C) or perfectly chilled champagne.

"To me, pearls go with pearls so I prefer champagne.  Many prefer vodka because when it's chilled it is tasteless and odorless.  It's a personal taste thing."  "What about aquavit?"  "OH MY GOD that is DISGUSTING.  I can't stand it, it's just not my thing, but to each their own."  This choice is also largely cultural, you find aquavit served with caviar in Scandinavian countries, vodka in the eastern block and champagne in the west, far & middle east.  What the heck, experiment.

DON'T (EVER) serve caviar with metal utensils.  "EVER!!!  Underline that three times" says Chef B and I know he means it.

"Why, what does the metal do to caviar?" (I ask the stupid questions so you don't have to) "Silver oxidizes and makes a huge mess, stainless steel creates an alkaline reaction and makes that $300 jar of caviar taste tinny.  The reason you see Mother of Pearl spoons featured with caviar is because they're PH neutral, ceramic is also acceptable as is wood or bamboo."  "What about plastic?" (The look I got, you'd think I just taken away Marc Veyrat's Michelin Star myself.)  "Well, plastic is neutral" he says patiently "but when I think luxury I don't think plastic."

DON'T cook with it.  This is more of a plea than an order.  "Please respect the ingredient, it is delicate and perfect just as it is please don't cover it with sauce or sautee it in olive oil," he pauses to shudder "it's best in its purest form."  I must interject "I've seen it in omelettes. Thoughts on that?"  "I know you're thinking 'well if it goes with boiled egg' but the thing is, when you use egg with caviar you use it as a condiment, when you reverse that you loose the essence of the caviar, it's oil."

DO try it.  Just once, at a party on a fancy cruise ship, give it a whirl.  Just one bite, live it up.  

Caviar, pure & simple.

Final Thoughts Novice vs. Expert

The novice would be me, this was my second caviar.  My first introduction to caviar, under the watchful tutelage of the chef in my life was a local, Quebec farmed caviar (which we stumbled upon at the Chelsea Smokehouse) .  I found it salty and slightly smokey, the texture was smooth and very appealing and I realized instantly how addictive this could be.

The feast you see here was our New Year's celebration, a bottle of  Moët & Chandon champagne and a very special jar of Iranian Sevruga Caviar.  By comparison, this caviar was in a whole different stratosphere, it was richer, creamier, slightly nutty and more complex in flavour notes.   Its fragrance is iodine and ocean breeze and its richness reminds me of butter.

"Caviar, the butter of the sea."  ~ Gypsy

This is not how we roll every night, and even if we could I don't think we would, it would take away the opulence of it, the feeling of decadence and indulgence.

Since his first caviar (which he ate with a metal spoon) some 20 odd years ago, Chef B has consumed some of the finest caviar in the world, to great excess.  Among his favorite stories is the tale from his time with Le Cordon Bleu as a guest chef abroad Regent Seven Seas Cruises.  He was in the kitchen when an untouched 200g (7oz) jar of Iranian Imperial Ossetra caviar was about to be thrown in the trash, and he let out a cry of disbelief (read: pain).  "Do you want it?" they asked and Benoit (being Benoit) said "do I want it?!  Of course I want it!"

Later that night, he ordered a bottle of Dom Perignon and freshly showered, he sat in his Regent Cruise line bathrobe on the balcony of his suite, alone, with his bottle of champagne and gigantic jar of caviar and watched a school of flying fish skip the waves of the Caribbean.

Two hundred grams of caviar in one sitting, that's FOUR TIMES the size of the jar you see here and he consumed it all by himself.  My Chef B is not a big guy, he's about 5'6" and weighs in at around 160 but when it comes to caviar...

"Towards the end [of that 200 gram jar] I was washing down each mouthful with champagne," he laughs at himself " it truly was a sin of gluttony.  That was the night I learned there really is such a thing as TOO MUCH caviar.  

It was FANTASTIC." ~ Chef B

So, there really can be too much of a good thing.  Good to know.

Resources & links:
International: Caviar Express (FYI: attached is very informative blog)
Canadian: The Caviar Centre

Still rollin' like a rock star, Chef B finishes the jar after I tag out.

Instead of new years resolutions, for many years now I have given each year an overarching life theme to promote personal growth.

Resolutions focus on largely on external change, loosing weight, quitting smoking, eating healthy.  For me a theme takes the focus off the external and focuses on the internal.   Under each theme I have goals, objectives and desires but often times I find that the action organically materializes as a natural consequence of the inner shift, as I set my intent for another year well lived.

In 2010 the theme was "My Life From Scratch" and as soon as it was set, I sold my business, home, car and television and started again.  I traveled 30,000 miles, launched Food Gypsy, reunited with those I loved and pursued my wildest dreams.  I went to culinary school, moved to Ottawa and started over a new city; I created a whole new life, from scratch.

The theme for 2011 was "Bigger & Better".  I thought this meant more cuisine knowledge but quickly found that path was not for me.  Another of life's little twists came when the phone rang and a former (flirty) cuisine instructor asked me out ( here I thought he moved my scorching pans out of a love for butter).  My love life got bigger (and better), I moved to a bigger, better apartment with a bigger, better kitchen.  My career got bigger (as my skills got better) and when my found myself suddenly ill, I got better... while my pants got bigger. (One must be careful how one words these things.)

2011 was a year of challenges and overcoming challenge makes us bigger and better.

This holiday season as the snow fell outside, Chef B (former cuisine instructor, mover of scorching butter, love of my life, companion in the kitchen) produced a small box from under the tree.  He then proceeded to stammer though a disjointed speech that started with "Look, you're a good woman..."

There was some confusion as to what exactly was being asked "I was wondering if you would like to commit to this relationship for a very long time... with a ceremony in between" and what exactly the answer was, I was too distracted by the sparkly ring to reply.  One thing's for sure, life with us is never dull.

So.  Looks like I'm planning a wedding AND a move.  Thus the theme for 2012: "The Great Coming Together" --- an homage to that 'ceremony in between' and the gooey stuff that unites us all.   As usual, I think I have an idea where this will take me, but I've learned it will surprise in new and wonderful ways.  It always does.

The theme for the year was easy, the theme for the wedding is proving much trickier.  Themes that have (so far) been shot down in flames include:

My Big Fat, Gypsy Wedding.  "Think of the DRAMA!" Gypsy. "I'd rather not." Chef B.
The Star Wars Wedding.  "Use the force."  Gypsy.   "Over my dead body." Chef B.
The Nude Wedding, on a beach. "Double the flower budget..." Gypsy. "One word: SAND." Chef B.
The Star Trek Wedding. "Going where no man has gone before." Gypsy "OH MY GOD..." Chef B.
The Hillbilly Wedding, complete with John Deer tractor. "I loves me a tractor." Gypsy "Actually, I kind of dig that." Chef B.  What?  That was a joke...

Back to the drawing board on the wedding thing.  Let's think about the move first, we need a place with two kitchens.

Sharing my life with him is one thing but if he thinks I'm sharing a kitchen, he's got another thing coming.

He got something shiny too...

Happy Holidays from Chef B & Me

*sigh* It's our first video together... wishing you a magical season.

(Yes, that's him with the vacuum!)

Taking a little holiday break, will post as time allows.
Wishing you and yours the best of the season.

He's gonna' kill me for this --- oh well.  Merry Ho Ho Foodie Gypsies.

The Chef in my life, was my first soufflé.  He souffléd me before long before we started dating, while I was a wide-eyed student who hung on his every word.  He soufflés so well, I’ve never actually souffléd myself.  He makes it look so easy.

So we're tasking Food Gypsy Technical Advisor, Chef Benoit Gelinotte (Chef B), to give us his best tips so you can soufflé like you've never  souffléd before, this holiday season.    Starting with a little sugar and spice --- the Chipotle Chocolate Soufflé.

His first advice:  "Make sure there is absolutely no yoke mixed in with the egg whites when you separate them."  As his sous chef, that’s my job, I separate over a smaller bowl one-by-one,  just in case.  I am also permitted to grease the moulds with butter and shaved chocolate, he then commandeers my kitchen while I open the wine.

During a recent get together, we all sat spellbound as we watched him revive the batter from a ceased, chocolaty mass.  "Don't try this at home!" he insists and I must agree, it's a tricky move involving adding more fat (in the form of cream) and then your batter may be off in consistency.

Better bet; don't allow your batter to cool and solidify while you consume wine.  Measure in advance, so can move through the recipe in one shot and get those soufflés in the oven (in minutes) even when you have company.  I mean, who doesn't love a live soufflé show?

"Be sure your egg whites are firm, forming stiff peaks.  Then add to the chocolate batter 1/3 at a time, folding gently until smooth."  The bubbles in those egg whites are important, they make the soufflé rise.  So we fold them with a spatula rather than breaking them with a whisk.

One of his best soufflé  tricks, his signature move: 'the thumb drag'.

"Take your thumb and remove all the butter and chocolate from above the souffle, dragging the tip of your thumb, slightly in the batter..."

This leaves the sides of the ramekin clean and creates a ¼ inch trench in the batter, causing the soufflé to raise straight up and not spill over.  (No one likes a droopy soufflé.)

"Keep the oven door shut!"  No peeking, a sudden change in temperature could cause those little beauties to fall.  Once out of the oven, serve immediately.

“The soufflé waits for no one!  Stop taking pictures of it and EAT it.” ~ Chef B.

(He gets kind of cranky if the soufflé falls prematurely.)

Having considerably more soufflé experience than me (third timer) he has stronger opinions on these matters.  In a private moment, when our guests had gone he voiced his feeling on the performance of a recipe that was not his own.  “It was too cakey, not light and airy at all.  It was cake in a mould!”  

I like cake in a mould.  If it's your first souffle, I think you'll find it performs well, it's rich and chocolaty and (because it's a bit cakey), the soufflé holds a little longer (so you can take pictures).  He promises a rematch.  I promise to reveal more of his secrets.

Oh Baby, soufflé me.

Chipotle Chocolate Soufflé Recipe

Prep time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes

Makes: 7 individual, or one large 6" soufflé

¼ cup sugar, divided
2/3 cup milk
3 tablespoons cocoa
2 teaspoons chipotle powder
½ cup dark chocolate
7 eggs, separated
butter & grated chocolate to coat moulds

Method:

1. Melt approximately 2 tablespoons of butter over low heat, apply to inside of soufflé moulds with pastry brush to evenly coat. Grate about 2 oz of dark chocolate on a fine grater and add to moulds, rolling to coat evenly.  Chill in the fridge for at least 1 hour.
2. Separate eggs reserving both whites and yokes separately.
3. Bring milk to low boil, add cocoa and half sugar, whisking to remove lumps.  Remove from heat.
4. Melt chocolate over a double boiler or 'bain marie' until smooth, stirring to avoid burning.  Remove from heat.
5. Add lightly mixed egg yokes to chocolate 1/3 at a time, whisking until smooth.
6. Add milk, 1/3 at a time, whisking until blended and smooth.
7. Add chipotle powder to chocolate base, start with 1 teaspoon and test, season to individual taste.
8. In an electric blender with whisk attachment, add egg whites and remaining sugar. Whisk on medium-high until stiff peaks form.
9. Temper egg whites with warm chocolate; add 1/3 of the chocolate to the egg whites, then 1/3 of the egg whites to the chocolate,fold gently with spatula so as not to break the the bubbles and maintain lightness.  Continue adding the egg whites to the chocolate, 1/3 at a time, until blended and smooth.
10. Spoon or ladle into prepared moulds, until approximately 1/2 to 1/3 of an inch from the top.  Using thumb, remove butter and chocolate above the batter line and create a ¼ well in the batter around the sides.
11.  Bake in preheated 370* oven for 30 minutes until risen and hot.  Remove from oven, plate and serve immediately.

We toned down the spice a bit in this recipe for the sake of keeping your face from catching on fire. It may have been a tad overheated in our original (never let the Gypsy with a stuffy nose be your heat thermometer).

Now friends know why I don’t order soufflés while we’re out, when the soufflé’s this good at home...

Recipe adapted from:

http://lechaudronmagique.blogspot.com/2008/03/souffl-au-chocolat-de-pierre-herm.html

The Smoked Gouda Duck Confit Grilled Cheese is a standard casual entertaining food around here. One of Chef B’s little treasures; it’s savory and smoky with just a hint of salty, buttery toasted-ness, and always a big hit.  Now it can be a big hit in your house.

It’s --- irresistible.

We hosted a small soiree this weekend, a “Winey Cheesy Evening” with a few friends who enjoyed a gooey fondue, a spiced chocolate soufflé and this little number.  So simple and easy, it just takes s bit of prep.

Duck Confit, is French tradition; duck legs salt cured and then poached in its own fat.  You can, of course, make it yourself (which we'll do another day on Food Gypsy) but it takes hours so in this application we're taking a short-cut straight to your grocer's cooler.

Duck Confit is often available in the chartulary section at your local super market or specialty store.  Packages contain two duck legs, packed in duck fat.  Shred the meat by hand breaking the fibres into shreds with your fingers.  Use a portion of skin as well (a little under half or to taste), breaking it apart with your fingers and mixing it with the lean meat.  This will help to keep the meat moist as it warms with the cheese.

The creamy white duck fat can be easily melted over low heat until liquefied then strained and stored in the fridge for later.  Or should I say “for ‘tader”; thinly slice some potatoes and fry until golden brown in duck fat and finish with coarse salt;  Pommes Salardaises (potato chips for big kids).

A note on cheese:  Gouda is a wax rined cheese, so be sure to cut away the wax around the cheese before you grate... or you'll have more than just duck in your teeth.

We’ll be featuring the other items on the menu this week on Food Gypsy, fun entertaining as leaves fall and friends gather.

Let’s start with a swanky little appetizer.
CHEERS.

Duck Confit Smoked Gouda Grilled Cheese Recipe

Prep time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Makes: 4 sandwiches

Ingredients:

8 slices white enriched bread
1 wheel (150g) smoked Gouda, grated
2 legs (one package) duck confit, shredded
¼ cup salted butter – divided (as required)

Method:

1. Pack layer of duck onto bottom bread slice, to cover; approximately ½ leg per sandwich.  Add layer of smoked Gouda, using about ¼ of the total cheese for each grilled cheese.  Top with second slice of bread. “Crush” lightly with a spatula or the flat of your hand so that the meat and cheese bind slightly.
2. Melt approximately 2 tablespoons butter over medium heat until bubbling, then gently add sandwiches to toast until brown. Flip, careful not to spill contents. Add more butter as required so that bread is well coated and fries to a sexy golden-brown. Reduce heat to medium low, cover with lid or foil to brown and melt for 3 – 5 minutes.
3. Remove from heat. Cut & serve.

The beauty of the  Smoked Gouda Duck Confit Grilled Cheese is that it can be prepped cold, then held (wrapped) in the fridge until you need it.  Perfect for parties.

Ignore the bulldog under the table... he thinks all cheese is his.

"We demand our cheese!" ~ Magnus The Great

Lobster Chili, you’ll be the hit of the tailgate party. MAN FOOD, with a refined twist (and buttery, garlicky, cheesy biscuits).

Ma Nature, sure knows her calendar.  September 1st, right on schedule, the nights began to cool.

Chef B calls from his kitchen “It’s cold, I’m making chili.”
“Not really in the mood for chili actually, too heavy."
“Well, you’ve never had my Lobster Chili...”  he says waiting for me to gasp “LOBSTER CHILI?! Whaaaaaat...?”
And that, my friend, is how he gets me every time.

If you’re new to Food Gypsy you may not be familiar with the comings and goings at the Gypsy Kitchen.  Chef B (Benoit Gelinotte) is the man in my life, a fancy-schmansy professional Chef and our Technical Director at Food Gypsy.  Which means; I run ideas by him and he either smiles and offers advice or his eyes bug out, he shudders and makes faces and gagging noises.

Sometimes, I don’t listen to him, I often later regret that.   After 20+ years in the kitchen, he’s usually right. (Something I’m sure he'll remind me of the time he ‘technically advises’.)

Chef B. at home, in the kitchen.

Once a month we trot down to Chef B's kitchen and he shares one of his favorite recipes with Food Gypsy readers. (for more, click on the Chef B tag in the right sidebar) This is his Lobster Chili, accompanied by Garlic Cheddar Biscuits from my kitchen.

(We have “his & hers” kitchens.)

And his Lobster Chili starts with --- chicken.  Allowing for a meat base that builds the chili flavour and extends your budget.  The lobster we add last, so it doesn't get tough.  The prefect bite has equal parts chicken and lobster in a slightly smokey, rich & spicy tomato, bean stew.

Another way to extend your budget (and save time in the kitchen): canned, frozen lobster.  Real claw & knuckle meat; it’s perfect for chilis and chowders for those of us who don’t have a ready supply of lobster at hand.  We like it because it’s quick and easy. Just as quick; lobster tails often on sale at your local fish counter – though often not as budget friendly.

If you take nothing else away from this post: Fire Roasted Tomatoes.  They’re a new favorite, for a hint of smoke in a tomato sauce.  Add them to a ragu, or use them as a base in a rosé cream sauce.  Beautiful.

 The other ‘secret ingredient’ from Chef B’s kitchen - liquid smoke.  If you have an aversion to additives by all means omit, but if you’re looking for robust flavour, a little dab will do ya’.   In this case, less is more or you will wind-up with smoked chicken instead of subtle smoke in your chili.

The prep time on this meal is less than 40 minutes, then your Lobster Chili can simmer while you do more important stuff (vacuuming, laundry, Facebook) before you add the finishing touches, bake some biscuits and enjoy a bowl of comfort and warmth.

The biscuits are based on my Grandmother’s recipe, which she clipped from a magazine.  It was yellow and tattered when I transcribed it years ago.

A few things I frequently borrow from her Irish heritage; oat cakes and baking powder biscuits.  I’m kind of addicted.  Amped these up because those Red Lobster people keep taunting me with biscuits in their commercials. (They should be banned.)

Great little biscuit trick: the shortening & butter is frozen and grated directly into the dry ingrediants.  This makes the fat easier to blend with the flour.  For fun, whipped up some garlic butter, froze it, cut it into small pieces and placed it on top of the cheddar biscuit dough.  The butter melted into the biscuit, basting them in butter and garlic.

Take that Red Lobster. 

Lobster Chili – Recipe

Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours minutes
Makes: 4 to 6 servings (how hungry are you?)

Ingredients:

8 chicken thighs (boneless, skinless) – cut into chunks
1 medium onion – chopped
5 cloves of garlic – diced
1 can fire roasted tomatoes
I cup tomatoes - chopped
1 can flageolet beans
3 stalks green onion, coarsely chopped
1 pound lobster meat – cut into small chunks
1 teaspoon paprika
3 tablespoons cumin
1 tablespoon chipotle powder
1 teaspoon liquid smoke
1 teaspoon Siracha sauce
1/4 cup cilantro leaves, coursely chopped
Salt & pepper to taste
1 tablespoon olive oil

Method:

1. In a large pot or cocotte, add oil and chicken thighs cut into chunks and sear over medium-high heat stirring frequently (about 5 minutes). Season with salt and pepper. Add onions and cook to transparent.
2. Reduce heat to medium. Add spices; cumin, paprika, stir to coat. Cook 2 – 3 minutes. Add garlic and liquid smoke and Siracha, cook for 2 – 3 minutes until garlic is transparent. Add water, to cover and scrape any reside from the sides and bottom into the sauce (that’s the good stuff). Add tomatoes, both canned and fresh. Reduce heat to lowest setting. Cover and allow to simmer until chicken is falling apart. About 90 minutes.
3. To finish: bring heat back up to medium, add green onions, cook 2 – 3 minutes.  Taste for seasoning.  Adjust as needed.  Add can of flageolet beans, cook for 3 – 5 minutes.  Add lobster meat and corriander, cook for 2 – 3 minutes.  Remove from heat.  Serve immediately.

Garlic Cheddar Biscuit - Recipe

Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 10 to 13 minutes
Makes: 12 to 14 biscuits

Ingredients:

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 4 teaspoons baking powder
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄4 cup frozen butter
• 1⁄4 cup frozen vegetable shortening
• 1/4 cup butter, room temperature
• 2 cloves garlic – finely minced
• 1/3 cup extra old, sharp cheddar cheese – grated
• ¼ cup green onion – finely sliced
• 1 cup milk

Method:

1. Combine garlic and soft butter in a small bowl with a spoon or spatula until thoroughly mixed. Turn garlic butter onto a piece of plastic wrap, fold plastic wrap over butter.  Flatten butter to approximately ¼ inch thickness and form a square. Freeze butter until hard (about 30 minutes)
2. Preheat the oven to 425*F.  Grease baking sheet with non-stick spray (or line with parchment paper).
3.  Measure flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl, whisk to combine.  Grate the frozen butter and shortening into the flour mixture and work through with fingers until evenly distributed.  Add cheddar and green onion, gently toss to blend with flour. (This mixture can stand at room temperature for up to two hours, covered with a clean cloth.)
4. Gently mix in milk until a loose dough forms, then turn dough onto a floured surface.
5. With hands, gently knead and shape the dough into a ball.  Flatten into a 3/4 to 1-inch thick disk.  Useing a lightly floured, round cutter cut dough into disks. Place disks on baking sheet. Gather up the scraps of dough, and press and cut into biscuits.
6. Remove frozen garlic butter from freezer. Cut into ½ inch square pieces.  Place a square of frozen garlic butter on top of each biscuit before baking.
7. Bake biscuits in the middle of the oven for 10 to 13 minutes, until puffed and golden.
8. Serve warm... with said chili.

Booze Ideas:

Opted for an easy drinking Cotes du Rhone.  In most cases, I avoid red with spicy seafood as it often leaves a metallic aftertaste.  But with a mixed seafood/meat dish and a spice/smoke compliment,  a light red worked well.   More options; Pinot Noir, Gamay, Sangiovese, Grenache or a simple Chianti.

For lovers of hops; try an ice cold Hoegaarden a white, wheat beer with citus-corriander undertones and enough chutzpah to stand up to Chef B's Lobster Chili.

Live.  Love.  Eat... well!

Inspiration strikes in the most unlikely of places.  Over the weekend, as we traipsed over the countryside trying to avoid the Royal Couple in their whizzing black sedans and police escort as they went about their royal duties (blocking roads), we found ourselves on the patio of one of our favorite pubs.

Beverages appeared.  Snacks soon followed and in that line up of tapas was a most disappointing chicken satay... which lead us down the slippery slope of "there is no excuse for bad food".

It's true.  A bit of forethought and some flavor was all that was lacking.  This was a phoned in effort.  Thankfully, our server agreed, the kitchen sent out a fresh attempt (while better, still dry and lacking in taste) and the item was deleted from our bill.

On our high horse of "there is no excuse for bad food" we decided to create our own take on a satay salad; packed with bright, Asian flavor - a joint effort in the Gypsy Kitchen with Chef B., him leading the charge on the marinade and my take on direction & interpretation.

A cold vermicelli salad with bright fresh veg, lightly dressed with a lime, rice wine vinaigrette.  Hot chicken satay, moist, pull-apart tender (and totally delicious) finished with a peanut sauce.  Balanced harmony in summer cooking, with a couple of "secret" techniques that make this satay a new favorite.

Chef B. : "Hey I'm just a French guy and I've never been to Asia, but I know that tastes good."

Right you are Darling, among the best satay I've ever had... in any country.  Authenticity and intensity.  Never comprise on taste.  The galangal really makes it pop.

Combining garlic, ginger, galangal, lemon grass, lime leaves, a hint of chili, cumin, curry (powder and leaves) and coriander we have a gooey pulp that is base of flavor that will move your pallet throughout the dish.

Marinade, beaten to a pulp!

For the chicken; we take the satay base (aka: goo), mix with a light soy & some oil.  In the peanut sauce, we infuse water with 2 tablespoons of the (reserved) satay base for a continuity of flavor & aroma, and in the dressing, the infused water is added to sesame oil, rice wine vinegar & a touch of soy for an herbal brightness and light acidity for punch.

It's a tasty satay three-way.

And just how, pray tell, do you get that fall-off-the-stick, melt-in-your-mouth tenderness we're going for?  That my friend is technique.  Using dark, skinless, boneless chicken thighs we cut them into chunky, thread-able pieces, placed them between to pieces of plastic wrap and gave them a good with the bottom of a frying pan.

Pounded thighs, bashed spices... violence in the kitchen.

The point here is to gently break the fibers of the meat. No need to go crazy, we worked them for a few seconds each, flattening to about 1/3 of an inch thick. Then dropped the chicken pieces into the marinate and refrigerate for at least 90 minutes, preferably overnight.

The result was a smooth, buttery texture.  This applies equally well in any dish where you want marinated, tender chicken.  (Dark meat has more fat and therefore more flavour than white meat and is a favorite in the Gypsy Kitchen. It's often cheaper too.)

Being summer, I'm moving the cooking outdoors.  I want light, I want cool,  I want simple.  But simple is surprisingly hard to do.  Miss a layer of flavor and you have "boring" - balance is key.

We choose rice vermicelli as a starch base with bright fresh vegetables for a simple clean taste.  Rice pasta cooks in minutes; rinse well, toss with a bit of oil and it will refrigerate for days.  Also travels well if a person were to be heading for the cottage or to a pot luck in the neighbours backyard.

Loved this marinade so much I doubled the recipe and now have scallops soaking for tomorrow. Only limited by your imagination.

Don't let the list of ingredients intimidate you, I broke it down into three sections for ease in preparation, or if you wanted to make teh satay as a stunning appetizer, but basically it's much of the same in different quantities. 

Good ingredients, good technique and a whole lotta' love, and you've got great food.

Let's get cooking... we've not phoning this one in.

Thai Summer Satay Salad

Prep time: 1 hour
Cooking time: 15 minutes

Ingredients:

3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoons ginger, sliced
1 tablespoon galangal, sliced
2 fresh, red chilis, sliced
3 lime leaves
1 1/2 teaspoon cumin powder
1 1/2 teaspoon curry powder
1/4 cup fresh packed coriander leaves
2 generous pinches, dry curry leaves
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon 'light' soy sauce
1 pound (approximately 6) boneless, skinless chicken thighs

1/4 cup peanut butter
3 teaspoons sesame oil
3 teaspoons *marinade infused water (see method)
2 tablespoons coconut milk
1 dash of hot sauce (to taste)
1 dash of light soy sauce (to taste)

1 package rice vermicelli noodles
1 carrot, finely sliced (or shredded)
1/2 a red pepper, finely sliced
1/2 cup fresh snow peas, finely sliced
2 green onions, finely sliced
1/4 cup fresh, chopped coriander
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 tablespoon *marinade infused water (see method)
2 teaspoons lime juice
2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1 dash of hot sauce (to taste)
1 dash of light soy sauce (to taste)
chopped, roasted peanuts (to finish)

Method:

1. In food processor combine garlic, galangal, chilis, lime leaves, cumin, curry, coriander & curry leaves. Pulse lightly until mixed to course paste. In this recipe, we went old school with a mortar & pestle to crush the ingredients together until both fragrance and flavor fuse.
2. *Reserve 2 tablespoons marinade 'pulp' in small bowl, add 1/4 cup of water to infuse flavor, let stand 15 - 20 minutes.
   Strain & reserve.
3. Cut thighs into three equal(ish) pieces, and gently 'pound' between two sheets of plastic wrap to approximately 1/3 of an inch thick. Drop into marinade, coat well, refrigerate (turning occasionally) for a minimum of 90 minutes (as long as 24 hours). Remove chicken, rush off excess marinade and thread onto skewers for grilling.
4. Place on hot grill, brush with oil if necessary. Grill for approximately 10 minutes, turn as meat begins to darken and char until cooked.  Remove from grill and serve immediately on dressed salad, with peanut sauce.

Peanut Sauce:

1. In a small bowl, add peanut butter, whisk to breakdown.  Add drizzle of sesame oil, whisk, this will make it looser, smoother.  Add drizzle of marinade infused water, this will encourage it to congeal and thicken.  Repeat, alternating between the oil (fat) & infused water (liquid) until sauce is smooth and harmonious in favour. 
2. Whisk in coconut milk.   Add hot sauce and soy sauce if needed for heat and seasoning balance. 
3. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes to an hour.

Gypsy note: Keep in mind this sauce will intensify as it stands, at room temperature.  The heat will be truer, the flavours will bind and it will take on a new character.  Leftovers can store in the fridge for up to a week.

Chilled Vermicelli Salad:

1. In a medium sauce pan bring salted water to a boil, add rice vermicelli, cook (according to package instructions) until translucent (approximately five minutes).  Drain.  Rinse with cold water.  Shake off excess water and chill.
2. In small bowl, combine seseme oil, lime juice, rice wine vinegar, marinade infused water and sugar.  Whisk to blend.  Taste.  Add soy and hot sause as needed.
3. In a large bowl add cold rice vermicelli, sliced carrot, snow peas, red pepper, green onions & coriander.  Toss with vinaigrette.

Gypsy Note: to be honest I reverse engineered this vinaigrette - tossing the noodles in sesame oil, adding the liquid/acid and sugar (etc) then tasting, until it was spot on.  I call this "winging it".  It's fun. So long as you have approximately 1/3 oil to 2/3 acid, you're good.

To plate: start with a portion of vermicelli salad, two to three satay sticks, a generous dash of peanut sause and finish with chopped peanuts.  Serve immediately.  Do not pass go, this is too good to waste, and even better the second day.

Go forth.  Make good food.

Extra chilis... for the brave.