The city's newest brew pub, Mill Street Brew Pub hit the ground running early this year with a big, splashy opening.  Located in one of downtown Ottawa's historic buildings, once the home of Thompson-Perkins & Bronson Gris Mill along the river's edge; it's spectacular location attracted a great deal of attention from curious folks (like me) who were eager to see the end result.  So once all the fuss died down, we ventured out for an early lunch on a Sunday to take a peek.

Just minutes from Capitol Hill, a piece of history was given new life as scads of moolah was spent on construction, installation of gigantic gleaming beer brewing apparatus and a sleek, yet casual interior design.  The look is old meets new, with a floor that looks like it could be original, polished and weathered, comfortable modern seating, hints of muted colour and big windows that look over the river and grounds below and feature glimpses of the original stone construction.   One of our servers confided that a patio is in the works for the summer, and there is a whole upper level of dining space I haven't seen - this place is huge.

The parking lot has a bus parking lane and between the location, the stunning veiw and plentiful seating, I'll wager The Mill Street Brew Pub will be a popular tourist destination in the height of the season.  The service was courteous, though a bit green, our servers had a good general grasp of the menu and the kitchen's strong points and anything they didn't know, they scurried off to ask.

The Mill Street menu emphasis cooking with the brew they make, everything from the Tourtiére  to the Chicken Tikka Masala is made with some form of beer.  They make a dam decent pile of fries along side a single piece of Original Organic Lager battered fish - but at $14 that's one mighty pricey fish & chips.  Sadly, my fish was a touch over cooked and dry, it bore the telltale marks of the bottom of the fry basket.  If you read Food Gypsy regularly you'll know I'm a pretty picky fish patron, but this little hiccup won't stop me from returning for another visit. 

Food voyeur that I am, a couple items floated past that made me want to give it a second chance: the sweet potato fries are served in a cute little copper bucket (it's shiny, I want one).  The flat bread pizzas, which use spent grains from the brewed beer in the dough, look amazing.  The portions are enormous, so you're not going to go hungry at the Mill Street Brew Pub, but you might come out with your wallet a little lighter, as pub grub goes, it's not exactly cheap.

A couple of pluses for families, they have a kid's menu that doubles as a colouring sheet, and for the young (and young at heart) the house brewed Mill Street root beer or root beer float is to die for.  I didn't indulge on this visit, but it is a Mill Street favorite, I prefer it to actual beer.   It reminds me of the root beer my Mom used to make when I was a kid, that would occasionally burst the bottles if left too long.

The Chef in my life is my official beer taster (a job he does with great gusto) but the in house Chaudiére ($7) did not encourage him to delve deeper into the brew on our first visit.  A big, hoppy brew, it had a great nose; hints of apricot and gorgeous colour, but I don't think I've ever seen him shake his head and gag on a beer before.  "Bitter...!" he gasped as he reached for water, sucking air, tears welling up.  It was the best bitter-beer-face I've seen in years, but that didn't stop him from drinking it.  He said it kind of grew on him and was better with food.

With fourteen beers on tap, there are lots of options of the beer drinking crowd; try the sampler or take a brew-master tour and explore many bevvies at once.  The tour intrigues me, I'm putting it on my list of stuff to do this summer.  I find the beer making process fascinating and who knows, one might even develop a taste for the stuff (if not one can always wash one's mouth out with root beer).  For those serious about their beer make note:  Monday through Friday tours are lead by Adam Rader, Mill Street's Head Brewer, check the Mill Street site for details & times.

My take on my first visit to the Mill Street Brew Pub is that they have a couple of bugs to work out, which often comes with territory of creating something new.  Once the trendiness wears off and it settles into a nice comfortable groove, I believe Mill Street will find a steady stream of locals comfortable in it's historic walls.

So I'll give Mills Street Brew Pub a couple more months to get their operation down to a smooth, effortless grind and pop back to try the brunch menu, I'm a sucker for Chicken & Waffles and he's a sucker for beer.

Mill Street Brew Pub
555 Wellington St.
Ottawa, ON
(613) 567-2337
www.ottawa.millstreetbrewpub.ca

When most non-vegans think of vegan food we think spouts, copious amounts of tofu and generous portions of lettuce.  We don't often think tasty, fresh and "gosh, I didn't even know it was vegan" nutrition; which is the cornerstone of vegan cuisine served at Zen Kitchen.

The Zen of Ottawa's dining scene finds it's home in what used to be a small house on Sommerset, in the heart of Chinatown.  It's comfortable room, with warm coloured walls and abundant natural light seats it's clientele easily despite it's small size.  Our server, Chelsey, had an excellent grasp of the menu and it's ingredients, and all the questions we peppered her with were easily answered.

I started with the white-tea ginger kombucha, which is a fermented, flavoured tea, served cold (top photo).  The fermentation gives it it's fine effervescence.  I remember kombucha from the vending machines of Japan, it's extraordinarily refreshing.  The Zen Kitchen version, with the zip of ginger, clears the mouth and readies the palate for a menu void of meat, eggs and dairy.

The lunch menu is tight, with six options that include the Zen Burger (mushroom & walnut based), a Ruben sandwich (smoked tempeh & house fermented sauerkraut), Gourmet Salad (organic greens & spiced pepitas) and Mac & Cheese (with artisnal pasta & chipotle Mornay sauce) plus the two we tried, the Tortilla Wrap and the Sobe.  Lunch mains are $14 and come with your choice of soup, salad or fries and you can make the those fries a poutine for an extra $3.

The apple-butter-miso dengaku tofu skewers, with Hall's Apple Butter and white miso is featured on the Zen Kitchen dinner menu on the Main Sized Caesar Salad and the lunch menu's Gourmet Salad.  First pan fried, then skewered, sauced and finally grilled, it's tofu done, very well.  I'm not a big fan of tofu myself, it's the texture that offends me, but this was firm, crisp on the outside and soft and warm on the inside, was a marvelous combination of savory, salty and sweet.

"We don't do much tofu and we don't try to imitate meat" volunteers co-owner & sommelier Dave Loan.

Zen Kitchen offers refreshingly little in the way of tofu and no meat substitutes, like tofurky.  Which only serves to underscore the variety of ingredients on the menu; the use of nutrient rich foods, seeds, nuts and greens makes for food that is refined and lively.

My lunch, the Tortilla Wrap with garam masala curry and puy lentils, sauteed vegetables, house pickled onions, spiced chutney.  Sauteed vegetables included avocado and sweet potato, which were outstanding and smooth against the curry and lentils.  The fresh crispness of micro greens, fresh and raw, lent a slight crunch.  It was not overly spiced and perfectly seasoned, and for me who's who's eating lighter... the perfect lunch.

Sopé - leavened house corn tortilla with sauteed vegetables and tofu scramble, Mornay sauce and house salsa, served with a side of rice is among the many Zen Kitchen gluten free options and my charming companion's lunch, which she consumed with appreciation and some well chosen adjectives.

We were both thrilled to see Sopé on the menu, it's hard to find Sopé outside of Mexico and the southwest United States, one of the stables of Mexican cuisine and wonderfully adapted to vegan cuisine at the hands of Chef Caroline Ishii.  The tortilla itself is a marvel, it has height, like a little corn cake, and the tofu scramble was tasty and sharp.  The mornay sauce made with the nutritional yeast, is a clever substitute for cheese against a tangy simple salsa and a creamy guacamole.

In one of the most intimate and connected conversations I've had with a chef, co-owner Chef Caroline Ishii shared a vision of her cuisine that is at once simple and articulate.

"It's not just vegan food, it's good tasting food... delicious food!  It must be as good, or better, than the original." 

If Chef Caroline hadn't driven that point home with entrees, she sure packs a punch with the sweets, which show a deep understanding of both technique and ingredients.   Chef's Dessert Sampler ($12) Peanut Butter Pie, Chocolate Beer Cake made with local Broadhead Beer served with an orange coulee, and Carrot Zucchini Cake with creamy citrus frosting and raspberry coulee.  As well as the gluten-free Sundae with Brownie chunks, chocolate sauce, vanilla ice cream, house whipped cream ($6) in the bottom photo.

Dessert left me speechless.  Using coconut cream to substitute for dairy whipped cream (with the stabilizing agent of guar gum) is at once tasty and pleasing to both the mouth and the eye.  The carrot zucchini cake was moist & spicy, not enough people use allspice in my opinion, so I was delighted to find it's flavour here.   I left inspired to try a few do Chef Caroline's ideas at home!

Many list 'love' as their secret ingredient, Zen Kitchen adds not just love, but the conscious intent to deliver the very best in nutrition and taste.   Among the most deeply satisfying meals I have had anywhere, Zen Kitchen delivers truly inspired cuisine.

"I have a need to nourish."  ~ Chef Caroline Ishii 

Zen Kitchen
634 Somerset Street West
Ottawa, Ontario
613-233-6404
www.zenkitchen.ca

Art Is In Bakery, or as I like to call it  Club Bread.  Dragged the chef in my life off on a little food recognizance mission in Ottawa's Hindonburg neighbourhood.  Target:  Art is In Bakery's warehouse kitchen/retail outlet.  

Eleven in the morning on a Saturday, we puddle-jumped the parking lot and scrambled up the stairs as the icy wind gripped us, opening the door we were ready to blot inside but instead stopped in our tracks, just barely squeezing in at the end of a long line of Art Is In fans.

Heavy curtains form a small alcove at the front door which opens directly into a space where industrial meets hipster; charcoal walls, long cafeteria style tables, a row of bar chairs along the window and a cozy sofa nook in the corner for the coffee clique crowd.  The ambient music strikes a chill lounge vibe, the staff behind the counter smack of art student, and the product is intoxicating.  The queue was thirty-plus deep, taking us past the rack of impossible-to-resist breads and plates of baked treats and the two large backboards listing the day's offerings - apparently we were not the only ones with yeast on the brain.

The only thing missing for the full on Club Bread experience at Art Is In is a large hairy man at the door wearing a headset asking skill testing questions to qualify your level of hip-ness in order to gain admittance:  "do you own technology that starts with an 'i'?"

The art of great bread is the life's work of Art is In's Kevin Mathleson, who creates some of the most beautiful old world bread I've seen in years in this artful space, breads big on texture and mighty on taste.  I'm a fan of the of sourdough line - white, flax, roasted garlic & rosemary and raisin.  Filled with the big, loose bubbles associated with natural fermentation, it reminds me of the bread I used to make with my grandmother.  Bread we would knead for hours in her hot kitchen and bake in her wood stove with a tray of water underneath to steam cook it to a golden brown; taught crusts and a tangy, chewy centres.

Bread made by hand is such a rare commodity in the modern age, lovingly molded, shaped and slapped - each loaf has a character of its own, be it smooth or bumpy, seed or flour covered - like the breads of Art Is In Bakery.   There's no mistaking great ingredients and those of us who value a product made with unbleached flour and the distinct absence of canola need never fear, we're the kind of 'hip' that's always welcome at Art Is In.

The bread I knew, I've been greedily snatching it off shelves and enjoying it as part of great sandwiches all over the  region.  This recon mission was in search of their new naan style bread, which was (sadly) sold out.  Instead we opted to enjoy a sandwich or two and select (only) one item from an impressive array of sweets.  From sticky buns to jelly filled doughnuts, chewy chocolate cookies to almond brioche toast, the baker's counter is a decision dilemma for sugar freaks like me.

We settled on the almond brioche toast (top photo) delicately favored, the brioche was rich and spongy, the almond cream was not too sweet and the icing sugar was a light dust.  It was practically perfect in every way except for the edges, which were a touch dry.  A light brush with thin coat of simple syrup over the brioche slab prior to applying the cream, and re-baking, and this could easily be one of my favorite treats in the city.

His sandwich:  chicken tika and cucumber, cabbage, celery & pineapple slaw on an in house tortilla with jalapeno mayo ($8.95).

I'll be honest, my eyes bugged out when he ordered the wrap, it really is more my style than his so it didn't surprise me when he wasn't thrilled with it, but his reasons were valid, finding it under-seasoned and the play of ingredients a bit off.   The chicken wasn't as much 'tika' as it was 'tandoori', still it was tasty and tender, but a hint under-spiced.  What did surprise me was that he ate it, and that it seemed to grow on him.  He had only praise for the tortilla itself and the jalapeno mayo, but between bites there were low grumbles of "I'm eating my vegetables",  I think they were meant for me, I also make him take his vitamins.

Her Sandwich:  tuna melt with shredded carrots topped with tomato, arugula and cheddar on Art Is In Dynamite dill, potato and caramelized onion bread ($7.95).  

In a word: yes.  Simple is good, and this is a simple sandwich done well.  A touch of paprika, a light background of dill and served on a gorgeous handmade bread that balances the flavour well and soaks up (some of) that gooey goodness.  Oh sure, I could have shot it dry on the plate (in fact, I did), but then you would have missed this moment and all the things that make this a great sandwich.

Overall: Art Is In is worth lining up for, good value and great bread.  Next time I shall endeavor to funk my do and liberally apply eyeliner... in case they install that doorman.  This is my kind of clubbing.  

Art Is In Bakery
250 City Center Avenue, Bay 112 - 114
Ottawa, Ontario
613-695-1226
www.artisinbakery.com

The recently expanded Red Apron, is among my favourite food outlets in Ottawa's downtown core.  Selling their own brand of sophisticated comfort food for pick-up or delivery, Jo-Ann Laverty (pictured above) and business partner Jennifer Heagle have created a business model that is at once simple and sophisticated.  Good food, reasonably priced and ready to serve.

As the business grew so did their need for space and the new space, directly across from their last location on Gladstone Avenue is a bright and welcoming, with hints of rustic character and a distinctly feminine touch.  There is now the option to enjoy lunch in-store; a selection of sandwiches, soups, baked goods and coffees.  Their larger retail space offers a broader selection of in-house prepared food,  frozen and ready to go, as well a variety of condiments, jams, jellies and preserves from local suppliers.

This is the third move for the Red Apron, who started out as a small business in a small space.  "Start small, that's my advice whenever anyone asks" said co-owner and chef Jo-Ann Laverty in conversation with Food Gypsy about the store, and the Red Apron success story.

I often find, in business, that women and men have very different approach; women are often content to keep things small.  Dispite demand and all the telltale signs of a business with growth potential, by and large businesses run by women often remain small and manageable, rather than take a risk at expansion.

"That was a big discussion when we began to outgrow our first location, we had a ten staff in a tiny kitchen and the debate was 'do we cap it or do we move?'" confides Laverty.   There is wisdom in both camps, and no wrong or right way to do it, but fans of the Red Apron can thank their lucky stars that there are two savvy business women at the helm, their success means they can feed more of us.

Holding true to their mandate, delivering good, wholesome food that is "either local or organic" the new Red Apron Basics line now offers customers dried goods too.

The Red Apron Basics Popcorn is both local AND organic.

I became a fan of the Red Apron when I first moved to Ottawa in the fall of 2010.  Only a few minutes away, there were many a night when the Red Apron was my personal chef, while I was a busy culinary student.  Fresh, seasonal ingredients, artfully presented and prepared with care.  Dinners can be ordered by the day or by the week with a rotating menu; prefect for busy families and time crunched singles.

I was never that organized, so opted instead for items out of their freezer, which were waiting for me when I got home.  I've never eaten anything I didn't like from the menu and have a deep love for the Organic Chocolate Chip Cookies because a) they're huge and b) they're easier to justify than other cookies.  ("What?!  It's O-R-G-A-N-I-C.")  

This week's menu includes: Roast Ontario Pork Loin with Grainy Mustard, Herb Gremolata & Honeycrisp Compote.  Organic Rice & Lentil Pilaf with Caramelized Onions & Fennel, Roasted Carrots, Cauliflower & Broccoli.  A 'True Loaf' Baguette and Decadent Maple Apple Coffee Cake.  That's Thursday's selection (there's more) and you can call anytime and opt in or get more information.

"People are realizing more and more that time has value."

"That is so true," I agree " so many people don't even have time to cook anymore.  They have 2o minutes to get food on the table so they wind up eating out of a box.  Sometimes I run recipes on Food Gypsy and I look at the cooking time and think 'three hours?! who has time for that?', maybe on a weekend."

"That's where we come in, we can braise that piece of meat for three hours and our customers can enjoy a great meal with their family" said Laverty, and she's right.

Being busy moms, Jo-Anne & Jennifer know what their customers are up against; "part of our mission is to get families back to the table" she says smiling.  Business is good, that means more families are eating together and that... can only be a good thing.

The Red Apron
564 Gladstone Ave.
Ottawa, Ontario K1R 5P3
613-695-0417
www.redapron.ca

Known in Ottawa as THE maritime-hillbilly, loud and rowdy, tiny postage-stamp-sized place with the morals of a sailor and the ethics of a librarian; The Whalesbone Oyster House is a downtown haven for seafood lovers with a heart.

The all Canadian, sustainably sourced, Ocean Wise approved menu is tight and lean; four appetizers, four mains.  The ambiance is rustic maritime with a hint of redneck; bare brick walls and a touch of tin, a bike hangs in the corner, the art is relaxed and casual.  The lighting is low and the kitchen is open concept; like a picture window at the back of the narrow room.  The Whalesbone seats maybe thirty-five covers, on utilitarian chairs and long benches, that look as if they hose down easily.

The wine list is sensible, the beer list is plentiful and behind the bar you'll find not an ounce of green apple liqueur; "we don't have those fancy liquors here".  That's right.  It's hard liquor and oysters baby, ain't no frou-frou umbrella girly drinks, that would ruin it.  The Whalesbone Oyster House focuses on noble ingredients, served with a dash of sass and a giant measure of real world values.

I walked in with my best friend, visiting from Calgary, on a what had suddenly become a girl's night out, as my better-half had bowed out of the evening at the last minute.  "He's going to feel REALLY BAD later" said my BFF Astrid in her typical French style, one eyebrow up.  As I walked though the door of The Whalesbone on a cold February night, I quickly understood what she meant as a cheer of "SURPRISE!" met me, quickly followed by a corus of questions pertaining to the whereabouts of my betrothed.

Ha, didn't bring the groom... SURPRISE!

Yes, my beloved Chef B, had backed out of a surprise engagement party organized, at a distance by my best gal Astrid, and on the ground by my darling Diane.  (Surprise!)  They spent MONTHS lying to me, pumping me for restaurants on my wish list and scoping me on Facebook.  (Seriously, what are friends for?!)   Around the table was a gathering of some of our favorite people and he... stayed home.

Now, any couple will tell you this is not a tragedy but an opportunity for a little guilt.   One phone call and he was on the road, breaking speed limits and deeply apologetic, all night long.  We can safely say he'll never do that again.

The tardy groom dons his feathers...

As we settled in, it quickly came out that I was an oyster first-timer and there was an immediate need to remedy the situation.  Our server, Meryl, guided us through the choices;

"Tonight we have Raspberrypoints from PEI, Malagash Thrumcaps from Nova Scotia and one west coast choice; Marina's Gold, all choice size ($3.15/shell).  And the St. Simone, from New Brunswick in the cocktail size ($2.95/ shell). "

The St. Simone being the smallest, I opted for that variety.  As a general rule; the smaller the oyster, the sweeter the taste.  I'm not known for overt pickiness at the table, but I'm not fond of certain textures and "slime" is one texture that has never appealed.

"They look like snot..." I protested.  Meryl agreed "luggies of the sea my Dad calls them."  I like Meryl's Dad, but I am nothing, if not willing.  When in Rome...

I had plenty of encouragement from those around the table:
"Loosen it with your fork."
"Do I use lemon before or after?  Is this like tequila?"
"Before, just a squeeze.  Then you chase it with scotch.  It's like reverse tequila..."
"What's this cheesy looking stuff ?" (referring to what could be mistaken for shredded cheese on the side)
"Careful with that, its fresh horseradish and it's hot!"  

Condiment options included a sweet cocktail sauce, malt vinegar, an in-house hot sauce (that will melt your socks), Tabasco Red, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco Green, a Caribbean hot sauce that is sweet-hot and last, a vinegar bottle filled with scotch.

Why mess with nature's perfection?  I went classic; a squeeze of lemon and a quick chase of scotch.  I was forced to chew, and I'm glad I did because it was that burst of salty, briny flavour that helped me understand what all the fuss is about.  Cold and clean, like brisk breeze off the Atlantic with the tide out and the mudflats exposed; salty, windy and wild.  Still not my favorite texture, but in small  doses (with boozy chasers) I could grow to like oysters.   (Surprise!)

As the evening progressed there were multiple empty shells on beds of ice, as we slurped and sucked our way though photo ops wearing mandatory feather boas. We were loud and a touch obnoxious and, we fit right in.

It was a busy night, the place was packed.  The kitchen did exactly what I would have done, pump out plates to the two deuces (that arrived and ordered after us) so they could concentrate on our table of nine.  Perfectly acceptable and appropriate.   If the Whalesbone itself is a shoe box, the kitchen is a matchbox, tight and efficient.  So I was not surprised to see our food come out in stages, over the course of several minutes, in fact I expected it.

What I did not expect, in a restaurant that hinges on seafood, was to have to send my Sockeye Steak Frites with Arugula, Truffle Mayo and Red Wine Reduction ($33.00 ) back to the kitchen -- twice.   (Surprise!)  It happens, no biggie, but at $33 I expect my fish to be cooked to pink (as requested).  First it was over-cooked, then it was under-cooked but when it returned the third time, it was perfect.

I'll admit that put a damper on my evening and not because it's the first time I've sent a meal back to the kitchen but because I really didn't want to have to dish on anything negative on a such a lovely (surprising) evening and a venue that exudes such charm.  Our server apologized profusely.  It pays to mention that on the night in question,  Chef Chloe Berlanga (who moved up the line, taking over from Chef Charlotte Langley last December) did not appear to be in the kitchen.

The good news is, this gave me ample time to get feedback on everyone's meals:

"The scallops are PERFECT... I've got squash and plum and hazelnuts... there's a lot going on here!" said Astrid, of the Seared Scallop with Fois Gras, Squash Puree and Hazelnuts ($19) appetizer she enjoyed as her main.  I would agree, it was my option as an appetizer and the scallops were seasoned and seared to absolute perfection, translucent and juicy with the taste of the Bay of Fundy still evident.

"The lobster mashed ROCKS, it's got BACON in it" reported Brenda at the other end of the table and that was heartily echoed by Lisanne and Sean.  Braised Beef Short Rib on Lobster Scallion Bacon Mashed Potatoes, with Rabini, Jus and Gremolada ($37).   "The short rib is fall-off-the-bone tender" gushed Diane, through her feathers.  (Gremolada: a condiment made with lemon zest, garlic, and parsley.)

"Perfect walleye, great balance of flavour and I even like the [chipotle] barbecue sauce..." said Chef B, my loving fiancé.   Hold the phone, he LIKED a barbecue sauce?!  Honey, take that one to the bank. He's not a fan of savory and sweet but he downed the Walleye with Calypso Beans, Chipotle, Sour Cream, Lime and Toasted Almonds ($30) in record time.

Following our meal there were shots... of scotch.  What!? Your engagement party didn't include shooting hard liquor?  (Surprise!)  And a selection of sweets around the table.  There was a general consensus that the Hot Chocolate with Fresh Cinnamon Doughnuts ($11.00) was "the bomb".

Will my little fish hiccup stop me from returning to The Whalesbone?  No, not in a million years.  I love a place with a raunchy vibe that doesn't take itself too seriously.  Is The Whalesbone Oyster House menu pricey?  Yes it is, but my friends, that's the price you pay for sustainable seafood, line-caught, farmed in sound conditions and approved by the watchers of the sea at Ocean Wise.

Is The Whalesbone a setting for a quiet, romantic evening for two?  No.  It's a place for a hedonistic pleasure cruise without guilt,  punctuated by shots and empty shells, after which you return home to tear each other's clothes off.   Well, that's my interpretation anyway.

Bottoms up. (Surprise!)

Thank you to Astrid, Diane, Danica, Brenda, Pat, Lisanne & Sean for a wonderful evening!
Additional photo credit:  Danica Guibord

The Whalesbone Oyster House
430 Bank Street, Ottawa, ON
(613) 231-8569 ‎
thewhalesbone.com

My version of a perfect Sunday:  a hike in the great outdoors followed by a basket of wings at the Chelsea Pub in Old Chelsea, Quebec.  This weekend we happened upon a little surprise; seems there are big changes brewing at this little historic landmark in the heart of charming Chelsea.

We're so lucky, as Canadians, to have access to our amazing National Parks, like Quebec's Gatineau Park.  Minutes from Ottawa's city centre, it is truly a treasure in the National Capital Region and a great place to get some fresh air and exercise.

Hiking with me is a little like walking with a four year old.  "Look B, the snow is sooooooo pretty, oh look at the sun, it's beautiful, ooooooo the clouds across the sun are simply stunning!  Dear God, the moon is out, it looks a-m-a-z-i-n-g!  Where is my camera?!"  I'm a walking, talking bundle of appreciation and after all that gushing, I'm starved.

Gatineau National Park, at the head of the Sugarbush Trail.

Can't count the number of times we've enjoyed the patio at the Chelsea Pub on a beautiful day.  Service is generally pretty good. The kitchen can be a bit hit and miss (because they're always trying new things), but what they do well, they do very well  and we respect a kitchen that likes to push limits.

The menu changes seasonally with a bit of a bistro lean;  featuring a few pub favourites (wings, fries, burgers), a couple of French classics (Tartiflette) and some things you might not expect, such as homemade pastas.  They source local as much as possible and that is reflected in some of the features you see, such as the Bison Rolls on their current winter menu; Asian inspired spring-roll-wrapped slow roasted bison from the nearby Ranch Panoramique.

What keeps us coming back again and again is the ambiance and the responsiveness of the place.  If we have a complaint, it's handled immediately.  If the beer is flat it's replaced and comped, if the food isn't to our liking it's switched, and fast.

French Onion Soup with ummm... sprouts as a garnish, didn't really work for me, the texture was off. Next time, how about an onion ring?

We once sent back a chicken satay, it was dry and overcooked.  This weekend I ordered the French Onion Soup, which I expected to be robust and full bodied, instead it was pale and watery.  We jokingly called it "onion water", it wasn't terrible but it wasn't a great onion soup.  I'd like to see the kitchen be a bit more consistent.

As a general rule I don't send food back to the kitchen, but when I do I appreciate it when an establishment uses constructive criticism to their benefit.  Chelsea Pub has always valued our feedback (without getting defensive) and we have always felt welcome.

Customer appreciation.  It's a little thing but it goes a long way.

Personally, I love their fries (skin on, home-style), they're cut daily, fresh and crispy.  Chef B is a fan of the Classic Poutine which he describes as "perfectly gooey" and "appropriately stringy" as the cheese curd melts under the gravy.

It must be said; I'm a wing girl and I've never had a bad wing at Chelsea Pub (hot, sweet-hot or dry).  This weekend I ventured into unknown wing territory with the Chelsea Guinness sauce and was not disappointed.  Sticky and sweet with big, beer body; dressing crisp, juicy wings.

On a busy day you might have to wait for a table, but with steady tourist and park-going traffic, the turnover can be surprisingly fast.  Thirty minutes before I shot this picture the place was packed.  Every seat at the bar was taken, servers artfully snaked though the tight alleys between tables and there was a line up at the door.

Cue expansion; after all, there is a massive patio right outside under all that snow.  Food Gypsy gave manager Alain Papineau a quick call this week to get the scoop on what we might expect in the coming months in the new, expanded Chelsea Pub.

"The new addition is going to give us more four-season seating and a whole new look!"  says Papineau.

"What about your patio? Does the new addition compromise it at all?"

"One row of the patio tables will now be indoors, but the windows slide open in the summer months bringing the outside in.

The new addition is a solarium [with floor to ceiling windows], that's where you'll find the new bar and a new stage area for our Thursday night live entertainment.  It gives us bigger possibilities."

"It's a heritage building isn't it?"  "Yes, it is." "Is it a registered heritage building?" I ask knowingly (I've had a Registered Heritage Property, the hoops one must jump through to do renovations can be staggering).

"No, it's not.  But we're conscious of what the building means to the community and to our customers so we haven't touched the outside facade" says Papineau. "The new addition is timber-framed, wood-nailed, heritage construction meant to complement, not overpower."

The original building was one of the first hotels in Chelsea, circa 1875. There was a time when horses were tied out front.  The new addition pays homage to the past while lighting the way to the future, effectively doubling their indoor seating capacity.  The designer's prospectus is reminiscent of the big mountain lodges in Banff and Jasper, paired down to fit the Chelsea Pub in perfect proportions.  Can't wait to see it finished, scheduled for sometime near the end of March, 2012.

"We're really excited to share this with our customers and hear what they have to say.  We especially love to hear from them on Urban Spoon, it helps make us better!" says Papineau.

Hear that foodies?  Encouragement.

Chelsea Pub
238 Chemin Old Chelsea, Old Chelsea, QC
Phone: (819) 827-5300

A little sneak peak at the new interior. (Photo compliments of the Chelsea Pub)

Burnt Butter Italian Kitchen , a new addition to the Hintonburg scene and a dream come true for husband and wife team Steve Wallace and Gen Lamorie.  Offering Italian-inspired dishes served in a slick modern room, it's small enough to be intimate but big enough to be impressive.

Joined on a cold afternoon by a new friend and fellow writer, for a gabby, get-to-know-you-better chinwag and testing of the new flavours at Burnt Butter.   The big backboard menu brimmed with choices and everything sounded so... exciting.  The Pasta selection made my head spin: Swiss Chard Gnocchi, Lemon Totalini, Curry Rasta Linguine, Tomato Fettuccine and Sesame-Soya Agnolotti.  How to decide?!

We started by sharing the Arugala Salad: brandied figs, toasted walnuts, plum tomatoes, purple onion and a balsamic vinaigrette.  Let me start by saying I am now addicted to brandied figs, I don't know why I hadn't though of this combination myself, I now plan to add them to everything.

The salad itself was a delight, both in texture and flavour, tart, tangy, sweet, savory, sharp - all at once.  It had edge and appeal.  We both enjoyed it and found it plentiful to split, so as not to ruin our appetite.

The Sesame-Soya Agnolotti: pork, lemon grass, ricotta in a tomato-hoisin sauce was her choice (top photo). The Curry Rasta Linguine: grilled chicken & shrimp, chilies, olive oil, pineapple salsa (below) was mine.  The service was professional and attentive, the food was beautiful but a couple of bites in and we two food fanatics stopped to chat.

"Is it me or is the food under seasoned?"
"It's not you."
"I'm not really getting the curry.  On the meats yes, but otherwise it's a bit flat."
"Yes.  I don't really taste the lemon grass, or the hoisin..."
"It wants for salt."
It does, but it shouldn't."
"No... LOVE the pineapple salsa though."

*long pause*

"I expected more."

More punch, more power and taste, our food was perfectly cooked, exquisitely plated and yet, we were left a little flat.  As a consequence, I liked it, but I really, really, really wanted to LOVE it.  I wanted to swoon and feel giddy but instead I felt like a little sad.  I know what it is to have a dream and watch it take it's first breath, the thrill of those first few steps and the excitement as it starts to gain independence and confidence.  I want success for Burnt Butter and it's people.

The experience left me baffled, Chef Steve Wallace has 25 years under his belt, surly he doesn't allow something out of his kitchen without a dash of salt?   In reading diner reviews, I note that others felt much the same, desperately wanting to to fall in love with Burnt Butter, but just not getting what they need to get there.

In recent conversations with other restaurateurs, I've been told that customers are complaining about "too much salt" (and sending food back to the kitchen), in response their food has become bland and shallow to appease.

So I sent a note to Burnt Butter owners Gen & Steve before publishing asking if they'd experienced the same feedback from customers and had therefore dialed back the food.  "Is Ottawa becoming salt-phobic?" this Gypsy wants to know.

Gen's reply: "Steve is really conscious of of health and salt intake and he is cognizant of the levels of salt when he seasons, and does tend to be on the low side (or what is perceived as low, but is actually healthy, it is just that our taste buds are pretty used to things being over salted).  We do have salt for the tables if a patron requests it - we certainly do get some patrons requesting it."

Awwwwwwe, you're trying to keep me on the planet longer.  I'm touched.  But on behalf of myself the dining public Steve let me say this; throw off the shackles of minding my salt intake, I beg of you.  Good heavens man, that's too much for you to worry about!   If I have a problem with hypertension or high blood pressure, I'll let the kitchen know.  (Hello, PERFECT blood pressure over here.) Please, by-all-means, season my food. 

If that cuts against your grain, don't make me ask for salt and feel like I'm insulting the kitchen, put a beautiful salt grinder on the table, a note about your health-conscious approach on the menu and I'll salt myself, thus relieving you of all guilt and sleepless nights.

For the record:  salt is not bad for you, salt is an essential element and important in maintaining good health.  The key is balance, moderation and GOOD salt.

Now that we have that out of the way Steve, let me now give you permission to wow me.  Let the food sing,  if I order a dish with curry as the superstar, I want to taste it by-gum.   Slap me in the mouth, I like my Italian a little on the rough side.  I'll be back and I'll be happy to be playfully spanked by the kitchen.  (Metaphorically speaking.)

You called it Brunt Butter... burn Baby, BURN.

1100 Wellington St.
Ottawa, ON K1Y 2Y7
Phone: 613.792.4000
www.burntbutter.ca

A charmingly captivating room, I look forward to my return.

Lovely Lemon Beignets and sassy sandwiches, Chez Edgar is a littel gem in Gatineau, Quebec.

My efforts to enjoy the sweet sensations and savoury delights that move quickly out of the tiny side street store front that is Chez Edgar have been thwarted.  First, I tried to get an Edgar fix on a Monday, Mondays and Tuesdays are their dark days. (Everyone deserves a day off. )  Then we tried on a sunny Sunday (along with dozens of others) for a bite of brunch, alas the we were too famished (and cranky) to wait.  So instead, we arrived an hour early on a Wednesday morning and waited... with dogged foodie determination. (Opening hours Wednesday to Friday:10 - 6:30,  Saturday: 9:30 - 5 and Sunday 10 - 5.)

The kitchen consumes most of the square footage, with eleven inside covers and seating for ten on the patio, it’s easy to see why take-out is a must.  Served in are a selection of grilled sandwiches, in-house soups, sweet treats and terrific coffees. Decidedly casual; menus are posted on chalkboards and baked goods are stacked with stylish precision on depression glass over a deli cooler that houses the day’s frozen take-away and trays of sandwiches, ready to roll.

Chez Edgar is tight and homey, kind of quirky and immediately appealing.  Much like the food.

The mind behind Edgar never stops working; writer, painter, cook, and blogger (She Eats Bears, Seed to Fork) Marysol Foucault confesses to having difficulty relaxing.  She and partner (in life and business) Simon Guibord took a giant leap a year ago and let a dream come true; the result is Edgar.

We, the grateful public, can be glad because  it's this restlessness that fosters sugary confections and savoury meals.  My sweet tooth ached and having absolutely no will power, I indulged.  The Lemon Beignet - so perfectly pretty I didn’t want to eat it, nutmeg batter, filled with lemon curd and tossed in a light cinnamon sugar.  Opening it was like cracking a lovely little egg, tangy and creamy, toasty and cakey, sugary and sweet.

We don’t care that 10AM is too early for lunch, we’re rebels that way.  Her sandwich: roast beef, aged cheddar, roasted red pepper, sauteed onions, horseradish mayo and arugula, mounted on a full-flavored roll from Art Is In Bakery, pressed and toasted ($7.25).  I love arugula on a sandwich; that bite of bitter, together in a medium of gooey cheese, with beef and sweet pepper & onion and a touch of heat from the horseradish, it's sharp, yet simple.  I'm a big fan of simple food done well.

Her: sandwich

His sandwich: fresh figs, provolone, brie, prosciutto and arugula ($7.00).  Chef B’s eyebrows went up, his review (between bites) was “tasty little sandwich!”  You have no idea the weight this holds (particularly after I made him wait an hour because I got my times wrong) it means we’ll be back... and likely it'll be him insisting we get take-out too.

YIPEE!

Chez Edgar: The prices are reasonable, the food is terrific, the service is warm, it’s only drawback is its size, you may have to line up to take your turn at the counter.  A year later, one might suggest it could be time (dare I say)... to grow.

60 rue Begin, Gatineau, QC
819-205-1110
http://chezedgar.ca/

His Sandwich...

A Canadian original since 1976, BeaverTails got their start in our nation's capital, Ottawa, Ontario and are now served in three countries; Canada, the USA and Sudia Arabia.  (Yes, Saudi Arabia.) Heck, thery're so big they've got a Wikipedia page, even President Obama's enjoyed a BeaverTail.

So how is it that this fried dough pastry has eluded this Canadian gal?  Perhaps I have been too busy sucking back soup or licking the bottom of my wine glass but there's no avoiding the Great Canadian Beaver Tail in Ottawa's Byward Market so one fine fall day, I took the plunge.

The menu was dizzying, the Classic with sugar and cinnamon, the Killaloe Sunrise (Classic with lemon), Maple Butter with Chocolate Drizzle, Chocolate Hazelnut Spread, Reese's Pieces, Oreo, Skor, Apple Cinnamon with Caramel Swirl, and Chocolate Hazelnut Banana.  How does one decide?  Obviously one asks the perky BeaverTail gal with green hair...

"It's my first time, what do you recommend?"

"It's your first time?  Where you from?!"

A well touristed location, frequented by visiting dignitaries, I could be from anywhere.  Moral dilemma, do I lie and utilize any one of the half dozen or so alter-egos and pretend to be --- American?    Alas, years of conditioned niceness kicks in and I cop to the tragic truth.

"Actually, I live here... but I'm from Vancouver originally. "  (Being from the west acts as a blanket excuse in Central and Eastern Canada, it's almost like being from another country.)

"WHAT?   And you've never had a BeaverTail?!"

Ears around us perk, some look and smile and the six year old to my left laughs out loud.  I have my Nikon  around my neck, I could easily be a tourist but no, I am one of them.  Her grandmother apologizes for her, "Oh, I'm sorry we didn't mean to laugh, its just that we can't imagine it" she confesses, "we've grow up on BeaverTails."

"I know, I feel as though I've neglected part of my Canadian heritage.  It's like never having had a Tim Horton's doughnut.  How could I let this happen?  Let's fix this right now... what am I having?"

My first BeaverTail was the topic of group debate, with several BeaverTailers voicing opinions from their sunny outdoor perches surrounding the little shack that bears the sign "BEAVER TAILS" overhead.  The banter is rapid; chocolate no chocolate, candy no candy, turns out we are all of like mind, my first should be a straight ahead approach, the  Killaloe Sunrise.  The simplicity of the Classic (sugar and cinnamon), plus the slight acidity of a squeeze of lemon.  Nothing complicated.

The BeaverTail itself is a simple idea;  a chunk of whole wheat bread dough, flattened it out into an oval shape (to resemble  a beaver's tail), dropped into a fryer until golden brown then topped it with something sweet.  They're served hot and fresh, slipped into a custom envelope.

The yeasty aroma fills the senses as I taste one for the very first time; like cinnamon toast but doughier.  It reminds me of Sundays when Mom would bake bread and Dad and I would gorge as it emerged, fresh from the oven.

Moist,  fresh, slightly fatty; the sugar clings to your fingers and it is your obligation to lick them free of stickiness as you tear your BeaverTail apart and consume with glee.

Those who assisted in my selection walk by on and nod "Good huh?!"  "Oh... " my mouth is full, vocational hazard "yeaaaaaa."  I have now opened Pandora's box, apparently it contains BeaverTails.

Good food doesn't have to be complicated, a simple idea goes a long way.  I wish the same could be said of politics. 

Last week, one of our fine Canadian politicians,  Senator Nicole Eaton (who clearly has too much time on her hands); proposed that our beloved beaver be replaced by the majestic polar bear as the official emblem of Canada.   A swift vote in the Canadian Senate defeated the notion, much to the satisfaction of the people of Canada.  Perhaps Ms Eaton should get out more often, enjoy a BeaverTail now and then, they're available just minutes from Parliament Hill.  Turns out Canada's pretty attached to it's beaver.

BeaverTails, Byward Market
69 George St
Ottawa, Ontario
http://www.beavertailsinc.com/

What do savvy restaurateurs do when customers ask again and again about the local the ingredients they serve and how they can get their favorite menu item to-go?  They build a business plan, lock down a space and give the people what they want, and the end result is:  Murray’s Market.

Owners Paddy Wheland and Chef Steve Mitton know their fan base, they’ve been serving them just around the corner at Murray Street, Kitchen, Wine, Charcuterie in Ottawa's Byward market for three years.  Their latest brainchild, Murray’s Market, swings open the door to dozens of farms across Canada that you just can’t find in your big box grocery store.

At the deli counter you’ll find Elk Salami, Wild Boar Bacon and a wonderful selection of artisan cheeses.  On the shelves, in baskets and in the coolers; preserves, pickles, local produce, breads, and a selection of take-out straight off the menu at the mother ship.

Their Canadian kitsch style is punctuated with humor; delivery pallets hang artfully from the ceiling, whisky barrels support table tops, a colander doubles as a light fixture and front and center a wood stove hosts cutlery and a jug of water infused with seasonal fruit, herbs or citrus.

Wooden clothes pegs double as tag holders in the deli case and everywhere there is a reverence for: The Pig.  From flying pigs to a piggy bank that fills with spare change as Murray’s Market customers show appreciation for great food and warm service.  On the wall a map of Canada charts the location of farmed products with the use of cotton string and a hand written tag, in this 100% Canadian venue.

For those who want instant meals: "Freakin' Potato Salad", Mac’n’Cheese, Lamb Shanks and Shepard's Pie (to name a few).  At the counter you’ll find and assortment of sandwiches and even homemade hotdogs - dine in to take-out.  For those looking for a stock tip in turbulent times here’s one: lamb stock, duck stock even duck demi-glaze, available at Murray’s Market.

A tremendous resource for locals and for visitors to our nation’s capital, an opportunity pick up something “Canadian” to go with that colorful can of maple syrup you bought for Uncle Phil.

But enough about all that other stuff, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty.  What the people really want… is a Meat Cone.  We’ve had enough of meat on sticks, we want our meat in a CONE.

Voila.  The Murray’s Market 100% All Canadian Meat Cone: a butcher’s paper cone filled with elk salami, bacon, Berkshire ham, wieners and bologna tossed into a pan and fried then layered with aged PEI cheddar, topped with a dollop of chunky Remoulade (the French answer to tartar sauce) and more cheese ($9.50).

It’s a heart stopper, in an “Oh-my-God-is-that-for-ME?! You-shouldn’t-have!” kind of way.  Atkins Dieters take note: no pesky carbohydrates.  Built to share.  But if you’re alone with your cone, not to worry, that butcher’s paper folds over and you can safely stow it for later. (Then your bulldog can stick his big head in your purse when you get home and wag his entire body in a Meat Cone induced frenzy.)

Let’s pause for a moment and give thanks for a stellar Meat Cone ingredient: Murray’s Market in-house bologna.  Lean, made from noble cuts, spiced and balanced; it’s a revelation.  A petite homage to Maritime culture and evidence of co-owner Paddy Wheland’s Newfoundland roots, it will change your mind about the lowly bologna - forever.  The chunk in the Meat Cone that will make you go “What was THAT?”   That --- was bologna.

Chef Steve Mitton in the kitchen with staffer Lindsay; Magical Meat Cone maker

Laughing, Chef Mitton claims the Meat Cone to have “magical healing properties”.

I watch as a group of students in the corner complain about “feeling sick" and “never doing that again”, returning multiple times to the water jug waiting for their Meat Cones.  As they consume layers of meat and cheese (right down to the bottom) they begin to smile, lift their heads from their hands and indeed --- remove their sunglasses.  Such are the medicinal effects of things cooked with love and bacon.

Murray’s Market, where 100% Canadian means more than just maple syrup.
…and you can take that to the farm!

261 Dalhousie St.
Ottawa, ON
Phone: 613-789-FARM (3276)

http://murraysmarket.ca/

I dig the pig. Thank you to Steve, Lindsay and Andrea for making this Gypsy feel right at home.