Posts Tagged ‘Mexico’

Cantina Habenaro, Ed Hoffman

Cantina Habenaro's Ed Hoffman... a very, very good man.

A sad piece of news from south of the border reached me this weekend, Ed Hoffman, proprietor of Cantina Habanero & JJ’s Cantina in Puerto Morelos, Mexico passed away suddenly on January 14th, 2011.

He leaves behind is lovely wife, Nataly and their two small children Jessily and Jeremy.  I can only imagine the shock felt by his friends and family.  I am so sad for your loss and the deep wound it will leave on a little seaside town in the Yucatan.

As I launched Food Gypsy, traveling through Central America this spring and summer, Puerto Morelos became my second home and jumping off point, and Ed became a fast friend.  A rare charismatic character, Ed had a talent for making people feel like part of the family in his establishment, for caring about people and for running multiple businesses, his family life and promoting business in Puerto Morelos with deep passion.
 

I remember well a conversation with Ed this past April over a big juicy burger and a strawberry margarita (hair of the dog moment) discussing the industry at length, its challenges and its rewards.

I had just sold my business (the Dragonfly Inn) and was exhausted from the heavy responsibility of providing not just for myself and the business, but the staff and their livelihood.  It was a burden that I was happy to release to others.

Ed shook his head and sympathized with the struggle, but his words stayed with me “I love that people depend on me. I love that I wake up in the morning and I know that I have not just my family to feed but those of my staff and my suppliers. It is what drives me. I don’t know what I would do if I weren’t doing this... it’s my juice.”

That gave me pause. It reminded me what a very rare opportunity it is to feed those around you – in every sense.

The food & beverage industry is filled with colourful characters.  It is not for the faint of heart or those with mild manners.  It is an 'in-your-face' daily grind that can chew you up and spit you out... unless you bite first.

And while we may discuss at length this entree and that wine on Food Gypsy... it is the people who make it happen. People like Ed, the passionate professional who seeks out the best beef, real cheddar and fresh produce, cooking his ribs for hours until tender, making his enchiladas so authentic you swear you are in a kitchen with a Mexican grandmother.

My piece on Cantina Habanero was one of the very first articles I posted on Food Gypsy. http://www.foodgypsy.ca/eating_out/mexican-not-so-fast-food-cantina-habanero/

I am a big fan of the town and its people.  Deepest condolences to all who knew him. I miss him already.  Where will I go now for truly funny off-colour humor?!  Who will pester me endlessly on Facebook, peppering me with naughty comments?!

His sudden passing rocked his family and his neighbours, who care about him enough to set up a memorial and donations page with a Pay Pal link to help Nataly fund her future. http://www.cantinahabanero.com/Memorial.html

We are a community that is scattered across many miles, joined at the heart.  Ed, you will be greatly missed.  I’m sure there’s premium scotch where you are my friend.

Cheers to you.

Cantina Habanero, Enchiladas with Red & Green Sauce

Cantina Habenaro Enchiladas... in the heat of July in Mexico. Thank you Ed for your kindness, hospitality and FILTHY jokes!

PesKAYitos Shrimp Tacos... you can't stop at just one...

Best shrimp tacos... EVER. Its bright orange you can’t miss it. Paskayitos serves one thing and one thing only, seafood.  So fresh it’s nearly wriggling.  

Throughout the spring and summer I’ve been junctioning out of Puerto Morelos, Mexico. This little tiny restaurant on Av. Javier R. Gomez, is among my favourites. It started with the shrimp tacos - lightly battered deep-fried shrimp that is sweet and juicy and not at all greasy.  

Paskayitos (and said shrimp tacos) came highly recommended by friends Rob & Joanne Birce who live and work in Puerto Morelos operating the AlmaLibre Bookstore http://www.almalibrebooks.com/ which is conveniently right around the corner from Paskayitos.  Thus began my addiction.  

There I was minding my own business, eating my shrimp tacos, when moans from other diners disturbed my lunch.  What on earth could they be moaning about?!  Fish Empanadas apparently. The fish empanadas are perfectly flaky and hot filled with beautifully spiced fish and tangy cilantro. We quickly became friends. (How can you not fall in with people who recommend amazing empanadas?)  Then they said... "try the ceviche!"  

Who could then resist the ceviche?  I'm particualry picky about ceviche and this complelty blew me away... great balance between the fish, the onion, the lime and the cilantro. It then became my favourite take out item.  

  

Until the guacamole.  

For fun... had a little cocktail party... no time to prepare so thought “hey I’m going to try the guacamole”. It took forever!  Just as I was standing there getting annoyed my waiter informs me they’re making it from scratch.  Ah-ha... that’s what all the chopping is about.
  

FRESH guacamole? I’ll take it.  

Creamy and smooth, with perky chunks of tomato and onion and just the right amount of chillies.  Happy days.  

Perhaps the best thing about Peskaytos is the sauces.  Make sure you get ALL the sauces try them out, mix and match. Ranch, Chipotle, Habanero (my favourite, made in-house), Creamy Curry and Thai Peanut.  

In short, I love this place.  Proud to be a regular when I’m in town; Perkaytos is always my first stop when I arrive in Puerto Morelos... and often my last stop too... right now I’m sitting here craving a shrimp taco.  No, ceviche. Wait... guacamole. OK, bring me one of everything!   And a Fanta...  

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g240327-d1434857-Reviews-PesKAYitos-Puerto_Morelos_Yucatan_Peninsula.html

Mexico_McGomez

 

 McGomez... why didn't I think of that?! (photo credit - Andy Taylor)

Mexico has become a jumping off place for me, in and out and constantly on the move.   This section on "Mexican Quickies" is a tribute to all the wonderful little places in the Yucatan that fed me... in this case... laughter.   

Does this even need a caption?  

In the middle of the Yucatan jungle, in a tiny village, bight yellow arches and a great laugh.  McGomez!  We sped by this marvelous photo opp so fast I didn't even get my camera out.  Days later, I discovered fellow travelers Andy and Kay Taylor of Dolores, Colorado who had the good sense to STOP and take a picture.  

Truly... marketing  genius.

Burger_& Fresca_Mexico_

 

In a land where the pace is slow, where church bells ring over the call of the loud speakers in the streets, where the sweet is balanced by salt around the rim, there is a mariachi rhythm that beats below the surface.  Life is a party.

Mexico has become a jumping off place for me, in and out and constantly on the move, it is also a place where I 'discover' I'm hungry.  It creeps up on me, and... BAM... I'm starved!  Three minutes ago it was just fine but now I need food, fast.  This section on "Mexican Quickies" is a tribute to all the wonderful little places in the Yucatan that fed me... fast and cheap.  

“I no hablan español” my Spanish is very bad.  No, correction, my Spanish is next to non-existent. I  have a tourist’s grasp of key words and phrases; salutations, bathroom directions, asking for the cheque and the change.  But beyond that, I’m lost.  On occasion this makes things interesting for those around me when I boldly attempt to communicate, in my very best accent.

Coached well by my friend Texas, who’s lived in Mexico for two years, I attempt to order my own burger - without fries – instead I ordered a burger... without a father. 

“I’ll have the bastard burger... and a Fresca.”

Laughter.

MORE laughter.

Laughter from the kitchen as the order is passed on.

“Whaaaaat?!”

Well, it may have been illegitimate but it was pretty darn tasty, fast and cheap... $45 pesos.  A tribute to the menu, one page of food four pages of drinks.  Hmmm... I wonder what they do best?   In a burger mood.  Grilled, fresh, cheesy, with whatever goop you wish- mustard vs. no mustard - the debate rages on.  In the Colonia of Puerto Morelos, Mexico at the junction of Highway 307 and Jose Mara Morelos Blvd, near the AVO station, Les Michealadas makes a dam decent cheese burger.

Whether or not this misbegotten beef was is recognised by family, none of my concern.  I love a good bastard burger.

Happy_Hour_Mexico

 

Annatto_Seeds_Mexico

What are these fuzzy, nutty things?  I asked my guide, as we toured tiny towns on the Central Yucatan.  Innately curious, I'd seen them gathered by women in baskets and something told me they were headed for the kitchen. 

Annatto seeds, sometimes called Roucou, is a derivative of the achiote trees of tropical regions of the Americas, used to produce a red food coloring and also as flavouring.  Its scent is slightly peppery with a hint of nutmeg and flavor as slightly sweet and peppery.   

Known as “a poor man’s saffron” annatto is often used for its vibrant, deep and somewhat seductive reddish colour.

In Mexico, you find annatto colouring stews, sauces, and tacos.  In the Yucatán, it’s combined with other spices to make brick red seasoning pastes: achiote paste (annatto, Mexican oregano, cumin, clove, cinnamon, black pepper, allspice, garlic, and salt) and adobo sauce (made with tomatoes, garlic, vinegar, salt and annatto).

I was later directed to a little butcher, who once a week pit-roasts an entire pig, rubbed libberally with simple annatto based paste in his backyard.  Cooked low and slow, 6 to 8 hours, over hot coals, the result is not as spicy as chili, the nutty flavor lingers at the back of your tongue.

With the help of his daughter, a canister of spices for "sniff and tell" and an delightful game of charades, he shared the secret to his annatto paste and now I'll share it with you.

 
Annatto, a new taste for your kitchen.

 

Annatto Rub for Pork

2 teaspoons cumin seeds
2 teaspoons annatto
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons lime juice

Generously rub over pork roast, or chops.  Cook at low heat 250*F (130*C) until cooked through.  For an added kick, double the rub recipe, set half aside add a 1/3 cup of apple butter or crab-apple jelly, mix well and baste over pork in final stages of cooking.  DELICIOUS!

(Gypsy note: In Canada & the US, Annatto can be found in specialty health food stores, Asian supermarkets and Latin specialty stores.  In a pinch - substitute Paprika.)

Annatto_seeds

Tomales_filled_Mexico     

Mexico has become a jumping off place for me, in and out and constantly on the move, it is also a place where I discover I'm hungry.  It creeps up on me, and... BAM... I'm starved!  Three minutes ago it was just fine but now I need food, fast.  This section on "Mexican Quickies" is a tribute to all the wonderful little places in the Yucatan that fed me... fast and cheap.    

Pollo D' Juanita, on a Gral. Lazaro Cardenas, between Ave Ninos Heroes and Rojo Gomez, in Puerto Morelos, Mexico; you see signs everywhere for the little mom & pop BBQ chicken joints in Mexico, “Pollo BBQ” and an arrow, which you (loosely) follow.  They appear out of nowhere, move and change, open and close – all the time.     

Is there a sign on the shop?  Sometimes.  Sometimes there is a sandwich board outside and sometimes there's not.  The only sign inside is a piece of constuction paper, written with felt pen behind a wooden counter on the right, it lists what they do, and sometimes don’t have.      

I've come across this phenomenon several times in Mexico, you ask for something on the menu... “No, sorry, not today”... so you pick something else.     Three days later figuring you might get lucky you go back and ask for that same item, still listed on the menu, “No, sorry, not today”.  My theory is: they never have it and they never will.  But, it got you through the door.  Clever.)    

On the left three large refrigerators hum, chilling waiting beverages and large tubs of food with tight lids.   Straight ahead is another counter and behind that a kitchen; two slow cookers, a four burner stove, one oven, a sink and a prep board.  The grill is outside, 8’ x 4’ it’s fired up twice a week, early in the morning, burning sweet, smoky wood.    The town dogs circle when the matron of the business loads the hot grill up with fresh chicken, I think they too are a intimidated by the glare of the woman behind the grill, all four-foot-eight of her.  Juanita means business.     

I could easily live off barbecued chicken.   In fact, I often do.  In and out of Puerto Morelos, Mexico for about a month; they know me now at Pollo D' Juanita.  Such a bargain, 80 Pesos and you’ve got a full chicken, rice, black beans, coleslaw and salsa.  When I’m holed-up, writing, this one take-out is four meals.  For that I will endure all suspcious looks, the occasional sneer and rolling of the eyes Juanita sends in my direction so long as there's good, cheap, chicken at the end of the transaction.  Nod and smile.  I am afterall Canadain, one must be polite.

Tamales are not usually on the menu, but on one happy ‘chicken run’, I open the door to find the formidable Juanita and her daughter, Gleacelda making tamales.   Despite my lack of language skills, I manage to convey a desire to learn /watch how to make tomales with camera in hand.  

Or as much as they are willing to share.    In Mexico, every cook has her own tamale recipe, her own sauce, her own masa mix, her own flavours.  I certainly did not get any family secrets out of Juantia (who bore holes though me with her icy stare), but Gleacelda galdly gave me a few moments of instruction in her (pretty darn good) English.  I kept up with my extraordinarily bad tourista Spanish/action charades:  

“This is leaf.”  Banana leaf – check    

“You put Masa.”  Masa dough mixture, like ground corn porridge.  OK.    

“Sauce.”   Tomatillo sauce?  No... Tomato sauce...oh.  No hints.  Spices?  Nope.  Smells like garlic, sweet onion, cumin, tomatoes.     

“Pollo.” Chicken spiced with Annatto seed, slightly sweet and peppery, Annatto is used in a number of rubs and roasting recipes in Mexico.      

“And...”  Topped with tomatoes and... arugula?  No.  Herb.   Epazote.  Another Mexican discovery for this Gypsy; strong and distinct, good for the tummy.  Use in small quantities.   

“Fold.  Fold....”  Fold the leaf to keep the juices in, placing the empty part of the husk under so that it rests against the side of the tamale with a seam.    

“...and... “ she fumbles with the tie, Juanita, who’s been watching the whole time steps in for the save, deftly slips the piece of corn husk tie round and (shooting me a death stare), turns on her heel and leaves.  All tied up in a nice little bundle, the perfect tamale.  Waiting to be steamed (45 minutes to an hour, you know they’re ready when they separate easily from the banana leaf) and served.     

Thinking I might be getting a heads up on tomorrow’s menu items I ask “Can I buy tamales... tomorrow?”     

“No, sorry, not for sale.”    

No.  Of course not.    

Cantina_Habenjaros_Burger

Just off the beaten path and worth every step (or stagger); Cantina Habanero boasts the best burger in Puerto Morelos, Mexico.   South of Cancun on Highway 307, Puerto Morelos is a cozy fishing village developed enough to be convenient yet small enough to be Mexican; where I stumbled upon a vision, in search of a cure.    

One sign reads “slow food” another “save the earth, it’s the only planet with mole”.   License plates from Texas, Alberta, Florida and Saskatchewan grace the wall and classic rock completes the vibe.  The place hums with x-pats now at home in Mexico here (as it turns out) for a taste of home as only an American can make it.   Welcome to Cantina Habenaro.

Have a burger.

Just the way you like it; stacked.  Real cheddar.  Smokey bacon.  Juicy beef.  The perfect tomato.  Fresh lettuce.  And all the condiments you want - even mayo!  (On behalf of Canadians & Europeans - I thank you)

Accompanied by thick, home fries done to perfection.  My savior in curing one wicked hangover.    (Note to self:  pace yourself.  This is not a race.  There is no ‘first place’ with tequila.) Reasons why I lost my keys and slept in a hammock.  Hamburger.  Best cure in the world.  (It’s science people...)  The meat, the cheese and the fries all react with the chemistry in your brain and flips that switch suddenly taking you from “ouch” to “oh!” 

 

This is the single burger.  It is not a ladylike act to eat one.  The menu lists a double… now that I’d like to see.  Must need some kind of support apparatus to stay upright, scaffolding maybe. 

Nothing I like better than toasted buns.  Crisp against all that juicy meat, cheese and goo, which runs down your hands, if you let it.  This is a burger lover’s burger.  

A testament to great food, it's fresh but it's not fast.  It's quality and famously slow, yet another sign, a giant arrow pointing the way to the kitchen "SLOW FOOD".  Who's in a hurry?  It's Mexico, relax have a beer... no, no tequila for me, thanks.   I'm good. 

A place to be lost, or found, Cantina Habanaro’s patio is often packed... there's a reason it's so popular with the locals and those visiting.  A 'must do' in Puerto Morelos. 

Great staff, ice cold beer (and other lethal libations), a proprietor who cares about his business, his food, his customers, live music... and... did I mention the enchiladas with either green sauce or a wicked tomato-chili gravy (go half and half).  Almost moved in... 

What's not to love?!

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g240327-d1197801-Reviews-Cantina_Habanero-Puerto_Morelos_Yucatan_Peninsula.html

 

Traveling the Caribbean and Central America has been a journey of diverse flavour combinations, ingredients remain the same but how they’re put together is quite different.  Let’s talk about hot sauce for a moment; from the intense heat and flavours of Mexico to the milder side of spice in Cuba, to the amplified heat of Belize and finally the sweet, tangy chili of Honduras;  a little tour of chili-sauce from one who LOVES it hot.

When I say hot, I mean hot.  Not burn your eyes out, can’t see for days hot – that’s too macho for me.  When at home my standard chilli sauce is Frank’s Red Hot.  My favourite way to get the burn going first thing in the morning on eggs, or to bring some heat to a wing is Frank's.  Also in the pantry – as a staple – Tabasco.  (Come on, you have to have Tabasco, how else do you make a good Bloody Mary?!)

A couple of Asian chili sauces I just can’t live without:  Sriracha hot sauce ( a true chef’s hot sauce, some have created recipes around this one ingredient), Sambal Oelek with it's tangy lime taste and bright red colour, a great way to kick up a BBQ sauce or pork dish, and ‘hot oil’ or ‘chili oil’, which is simply dried chili infused oil... a key ingredient in Szechwan cooking and my favourite dipping sauce for a pork dumpling. 

So it was natural for me to pick up every single hot sauce along the way and give it a go.  I attribute the natural heat of the capsaicin (the chemical in chilis which give them that ‘burn’) to helping me adjust to more tropical weather. 

If I’m hot on the inside, I’m cooler on the outside. 

Also a great way to chase away anything that should not be living in your guts... kill it with hot sauce.  The one time I got sick, in Honduras, I am making the wild (unscientifically based) claim that it was due to insufficient burn in their local chili-sauce which is all together too mild - but we'll get to that. 

First, let’s lay down some guidelines on hot sauce and what’s in them so we can better qualify the assessment of sauces which have been delighting my palate.  There are thousands of hot sauces all with their own recipe. 

A chili sauce is very easy to make -  the basic ingredients are chilies, vinegar/citrus, sugar and water.  It’s the additional ingredients - tomatoes, carrots, onions, garlic and various other vegetables and seasonings – that give a chilli sauce its flavour, it’s not just about heat.  In fact, the true value if a great hot sauce is that... it tastes good. 

It should accentuate and enhance... not remove your nose hairs.

That heat we talk about in chili sauce is measured by the Scoville Scale. The Scoville Scale number indicates how many times something must be diluted with an equal volume of water until people can no longer feel any sensation from the capsaicin. The hottest hot sauce scientifically possible is one rated at 16,000,000 SHU (Scoville Heat Units), which is pure capsaicin and frankly dangerous.  By comparison, pepper spray used in law enforcement is 5,000,000 SHU.   

The lowest pepper on the scale is the sweet bell pepper with no capsaicin, all the way up to Naga Jolokia which is measured at 860,000 SHU. 

Scoville rating Scoville scale – Type of pepper
15,000,000–16,000,000 Pure capsaicin
5,000,000–5,300,000 Law Enforcement Grade Pepper Spray,FN 303 irritant ammunition
855,000–1,075,000 Bhut Jolokia (Naga Jolokia)
876,000–970,000 Dorset Naga
350,000–580,000 Red Savina Habanero
100,000–350,000 Guntur Chilli, Habanero Chili, Scotch Bonnet Pepper,Datil Pepper, Rocoto, African Birdseye, Madame Jeanette, Jamaican Hot Pepper
50,000–100,000 Bird's Eye Chili/Thai Pepper/Indian Pepper,Malagueta Pepper,Chiltepin Pepper, Pequin Pepper
30,000–50,000 Cayenne Pepper, Ají Pepper,Tabasco Pepper, Cumari Pepper (Capsicum Chinese)
10,000–23,000 Serrano Pepper
2,500–8,000 Jalapeño Pepper, Guajillo Pepper, New Mexican varieties of Anaheim Pepper, Paprika (Hungarian Wax Pepper), and Chipotle (smoked Jalapeño Pepper)
500–2,500 Anaheim Pepper, Poblano Pepper, Rocotillo Pepper, Peppadew
100–500 Pimento, Peperoncini
0 No significant heat, Bell Pepper

Caveat:  Missing from this list are other sources of heat, like ginger or horseradish and piperline (black pepper) – a topic for a different day. 

Most of my favourite sauces rate around the 2,500 SHU mark (Tabasco, Sriracha) and Frank’s Red Hot, Original is quite low at 450 SHU... and that’s the point.  They have flavour and diversity.  They add to, as opposed to distract from, the food itself.

In Mexico I became a big fan of the habanero pepper.   All sauces habanero had to be tried.  My favourites were the homemade stinking-hot but packed with flavour sauces at the little roadside taco stands in the Yucatan.  I'd be over the moon asking what brand and they say "oh, no, my mama she make this."   Impossible to get a recipe and each batch is different, so you enjoy it while you can (hot tip: If you eat enough of it they will put some in a container for you "to go"!   And they think it's pretty funny when you squirt it straight in your mouth.) 

From the bottle in Mexico (when not scamming grandma's-firey-roadside-habanero-sauce) I like either El Diablo's Habanero or Melinda's Chili Habanero (double XX).  Both have great heat without requiring fire extinguishers and accent a plate of enchiladas without killing the flavor of a warm, soft tortilla.  Even MacDonald's has their own Jalapeño sauce in Mexico. 

In Belize I fell in love with Marie Sharp.  Not because she has her own island off the coast of Dangriga, but because her extensive selection of hot sauces (and preserves) made the most bland rice and beans more fun.

Among them...  Marie Sharp's Mild Habanero Hot Sauce a sweet carrot-based blend with key lime juice, achieves the perfect balance between flavour and heat.  And Marie Sharp's Hot Nopal/Prickly Pear Green Habanero Hot Sauce a source of... fibre (what?!  who knew?!) the first of its kind with a sharp green undertone.

Several bottles of Marie Sharp's found their way home with me... and more followed by mail.  The Mild Habanero is a favourite with chicken, brush it on at the final stages of BBQ or just dip it in a little tub of the stuff! 

Marie Sharp's Hot Nopal Prickly Green Pear is amazing with eggs.  Love it with tacos and tamales.  High in heat, high in flavour and high in fibre (who knew!)... the perfect `wake you up' pepper sauce.

Cuba had nothing to offer in the way of indigenous hot sauces, instead there was Tabasco on every table.  When politics shift and Cuba opens up, it will be interesting to see what wonderful chili sauces might emerge with a European and African influence.  The prefect Cuban chili sauce no doubt exists, bubbling away on someone's back burner. 

Honduras is yet to be completely explored, but so far...

My friend, Texas, a lover of fiery foods takes one taste of Schilos Chili Picante at a little restaurant in West End Village, Roatan and says “I don't think they know who they're dealing with... I could use this as eye drops."  His way of saying... not so hot.  So true, I’ve chewed cinnamon gum with more zing.

Where I could see this sauce in the kitchen is near the grill, particular with a soft, fleshy fish or as a glaze when grilling fruit – cantaloupe or peaches – served with ice cream. Sweet, but lower on the scale than Frank's, it makes me want hot sauce, on my hot sauce.  But then, I like it hot.

 

Playa_del_Carmen_Happy_Hour 

Stepping out of the airport into the hot, June air, sweet with blossom, heavy with humidity; into the noisy hustle of the taxi men in their clean white shirts.  “Where you go?”   “You need taxi?”  I’ve become accustomed the walking by with a smile and a polite, “No, grasias”.

Cancun.  Just a few miles south, Puerto Morelos.  It’s become a second home. For the first time in my life – I bought a one way ticket that took me to Mexico.  It felt like freedom. 

In the heat, I am waiting on a friend.  He said he’d be here and he will. 

Sweat trickles down my back, travelers come and go and I find a spot where I can see the whole parking lot.  Women in impossibly high heels and make up that has begun to drag, looking for an air conditioned limo.   Tattooed young people laden with heavy backpacks, wearing flip-flops, searching for the right bus. 

Two very different sides of the peso. Viva Mexico.

Time passes in the shade.  The taxi guys work on me some more, there are bargains in the offing. 

Traveling with someone for a time, I was invited.  Waiting, I remember how long it’s been since I traveled with anyone.  This might take some getting used to.  Nice to be asked, nice to have someone to enjoy the journey with, even if just for a while.  We share a common lust for adventure and new discovery, culture and fun and --- we have no idea where we’re going.

Time for something new and interesting. 

I am mentally justifying the amount of luggage I have when he arrives - looking fresher than I feel.  His eyes get wide when he sees my cases (it looks like more than it is!), he shakes his head and laughs “you’re such a girl!”  Can’t argue with that. 

And so my journey with “Texas” begins.

Vanilla_Beans_Mexico

              

One experience leads to the next, the journey of taste, the sensation of pleasure, the seduction of… vanilla.  Food Gypsy dives deep into vanilla, traveling Mexico to find the perfect, sweet, bean.            

In a land of flavor, vanilla may be among Mexico’s greatest exports to the world.  Used in everything from perfume to ice cream to your favorite baked goods, no matter what the flavor; vanilla is the sweet, warm temptress of the orchid family.            

Long, thin, black pods that hold both scent and flavor, in the tender seeds inside.           

Long thought to be a powerful aphrodisiac, vanilla is an often underrated ingredient.  In most North American supermarkets you’ll find ‘pure vanilla extract’ in small bottles at high prices, they are inevitably next to large bottles of  ‘artificial vanilla extract’ for a quarter of the price.            

Know your extracts... look for colour.

   Real vs. Fake... oh, I mean ‘artificial’           

Artificial anything is a far cry from the real thing, but artificial vanilla extract is made from either the petrochemical guaiacol or from lignin, a natural constituent of wood and a byproduct of the paper industry.         

Not in my kitchen.  Thank you.            

Organic, 100% real vanilla is worth the extra expense, start with good ingredients, and end with good food.           

Mexico was an education in vanilla.  I came here thinking it would be plentiful and potent, and while it certainly appeared to be everywhere, everything is not always what it appears to be.            

Mexican vanilla sold in tourist markets is sometimes not actual vanilla extract, but rather vanilla extract mixed with an extract of the tonka bean which contains Coumadin. Tonka bean extract smells and tastes like vanilla, but Coumadin is banned by USA by the Food and Drug Administration and others.           

Holding a clear bottle up to a strong light can tell you everything you need to know. If it is brown, muddy looking and cheap, it's not pure vanilla.

    How to tell a good vanilla?             

First, real vanilla is brown.  If you’re buying anything (including powdered vanilla) that is white, it’s not real vanilla, its processed vanilla flavoring.  As for the extract, also, check its color.  Real vanilla extract should be a clear, rich, amber color.            

If it appears cloudy or muddy, it’s likely not 100% vanilla.            

One sure fire way to know if its real vanilla is the price.  Top quality, vanilla is always expensive.  There’s a reason it’s so pricey.  It is harvested, dried and selected by hand.            

So far a good Mexican vanilla has evaded me, though I do have a lead that will take me to Veracruz and the fields of vanilla just south of the city.  Until then… going with a sure thing.  Vanilla beans.            

Which I’ll take home and split open, exposing all that gooey sweetness in the centre.  Some will go in a glass jar with fine sugar - to stand a few weeks before vanilla sugar can be used to dust the top of fruit or being added to my favorite vanilla pound cake recipe, making it double vanilla pound cake.             

Another two vanilla beans will be placed in a small glass bottle (brown glass is best, it keeps the light from affecting the color) and covered with about a half cup of bourbon/whisky for a little vanilla extract.            

That is if I can wait the full six months for it to stand… in a cool, dark place.  Vanilla whiskey is mighty tempting and they sell top quality organic vanilla extract in bulk at the local health food store, my "everyday" vanilla.           

Bourbon vanilla, more exactly... vanilla bean paste... still the queen of my pantry.

  Still Champion…           

While that steeps I still have my standby (and obsession); Neilson & Massey, Madagascar Bourbon, PURE VANILLA BEAN PASTE.  It’s my current favorite baking ingredient. I love to bake and love it when I’m introduced to something that brings new inspiration to that passion.            

Bourbon vanilla or Bourbon-Madagascar vanilla, produced from plants originally from the Americas.  Madagascar is the number one producer of vanilla in the world.            

I’ve used some of the best vanillas on the market… but THIS… this takes the cake!  In fact I’ve built entire recipes around this ONE ingredient.  Just opening the jar is intoxicating.  It’s grainy and sweet and adds a warm color to everything it touches.         

Seriously - love this stuff.             

It’s not cheap, but you need so little it’s worth every penny.  Where to find it?   Try your favorite health food store or boutique cooking store.           

         

Vanilla... sex?!           

The term "vanilla" is often used as a synonym for "plain" or “average”.   I think they must not be shopping where I shop.  It is a rich, sexy, elegant flavor on its own that blends easily with others.  There's nothing "vanilla" about vanilla.  Vanilla is  balance,  seduction and submission, sweetness and simplicity.    

Viva la Vanilla!   

Add a splash of sexy vanilla to anything with vanilla sugar.

        

It supports without overpowering.  It favors without imposing, it stands alone or in good company… vanilla… a gift from the Gods.         

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