A Nova Scotia seafood chowder, brimming with chunky bits of sea flesh, it's good old fashioned Maritime fare.  When the snow flies there's nothing as satisfying is a big, creamy bowl of chowder.

My first chowder came as a result of living the heart of Nova Scotia's Annapolis Valley in Canada's original town; Annapolis Royal.  There I owned and operated the Dragonfly Inn for five years, in a journey that would change my life and take me into the kitchen.  This chowder is a Christmas Eve favorite for parties, once made it can rest warm in the slow cooker as a hot edition to a big buffet feast.

Took the low and slow approach to this recipe by making a fish fumé (stock made with fish) to start. You don't have to do this for this recipe to be a success.  You can use fish bullion or a bottle of clam juice for that fresh from the sea taste.  I'm not a fan of muscles or clams, they are among the few foods I don't eat (one bad muscle with ruin you for life).

Making a clear broth as a base keeps my skills alive and, as I used salmon, it also helped infuse healthy omega oils into each bowl.  Atlantic salmon in particular is rich in good fats, because the Atlantic is a colder than the Pacific it's fish have more body fat.

I take the omega oils thing one step further when I add the salmon piece whole, skin on (scales removed), into the simmering chowder and allow it to poach.  Once the flesh is opaque, remove the fillet, gently peel off the skin and discard.  Salmon skin is packed with fish oils and I want all the omega oils my fine friend the salmon has to offer.

If you're going all in, you can pick up fish bones (or a fish head) from your local fish counter.  Some times they will give it to you at no charge, or they may charge you as much as fifty cents, it's well worth it.  The head and in particular the gills contain a lot of blood, so you want to be sure you clean and rinse any parts your using in COLD water.   I only used the cheek and front fins, simmered low and slow for 45 minutes with some leaks, seasoning and white wine then stained.  It was a great start to a wicked chowder.

We've paired this with one of the simplest, fastest Blue Cheese Scallion Biscuit recipes I've ever come across, I was thrilled with the results.   The biscuits are light and fluffy in and loaded with blue cheese, sour cream and butter.  A sharp accompaniment to a creamy bowl of Old Fashioned Nova Scotia Seafood Chowder.

Wine paring suggestion:  I went with a bright, fruity riesling, which bounced of the cheese, the seafood and the cream beautifully opening the pallent and allowing all the brine of the sea to shine through.  

Old Fashioned Nova Scotia Seafood Chowder Recipe

Fish Fumé (prep time: 10 minutes, cooking time 45 minutes)

12 oz fish bones (or fish parts, cleaned of all blood)
4 inch piece of green leek, cut in half lengthwise
12 whole peppercorns
1 bay leaf
3 or four fresh parsley stems
3 sprigs of thyme (1/4 teaspoon dried thyme)
1 cup dry white wine
2 cups of water (enough to just cover the fish)

Chowder (prep time 20 minutes, cooking time 45 minutes)

3 tablespoons butter
2 onions, chopped
3 stalks of celery, finely chopped
3 tablespoons flour
12 red skinned baby potatoes, halved
3 cups of light cream
1 - 2 cups water (to taste)
1 (16 oz) fillet of haddock
1 medium sized (16 oz) fillet of salmon
8 - 12 scallops, cut in half (or quarters depending on size)
1 can cooked frozen lobster, thawed and drained
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
3 tablespoons fresh parsley, coarsely chopped
salt to taste

Method:

Fish Fumé - 

1.  Clean and rinse bones and flesh of all blood using cold water.  Once water runs clear, reserve in cold water until ready.

2.  In a medium sauce pan add bones, leeks, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, white wine and enough cold water to cover the fish.   Bring to a boil then reduce heat to medium low and simmer, for 45 minutes.  DO NOT ADD SALT.  This is your base, it will reduce and therefore concentrate any flavours, including salt, season the chowder in its final stages instead.

3.  Remove from heat.  Let stand for 15 to 20 minutes.  Strain and reserve liquid.

Chowder - 

1.  In a large, heavy bottomed pot (or dutch oven) melt butter.  Add onions and celery and sweat over medium heat until onions are tender and transparent about 5 minutes.  Add salt, cayenne pepper and paprika and stir to mix.  Add flour, cook, stirring constantly for 2 minutes.

2.  Add fish fumé, and scrape any golden brown bits off the bottom of the pot so you get all that nice flavour in your chowder.  Add potatoes; add water as necessary to cover ingredients and raise above about an inch, then bring to a boil.  Reduce heat and simmer, stirring as needed until potatoes are tender, about 12 minutes.

3.  Stir in cream over a low simmer.  Add scallops and stir.   Add haddock & salmon fillets whole (with the salmon skin on, as above) resting on top of the chowder so you can monitor doneness.  The haddock will break apart naturally as it is cooked, this will keep it tender and flaky.  Allow the salmon to  poach whole, skin on, baisting it with the hot chowder base,  about 5 minutes.  Once the flesh is opaque, remove the fillet, gently peel off the skin and discard and return salmon fresh to the pot.

4.  Add lobster, stir in parsley and thyme.  Break apart any large chucks of fish with a wooden spoon.  Cook  at a low simmer about about 4 minutes until lobster is warmed through.  Taste for seasoning level and add salt as desired.

This is a recipe you can make ahead, store in an airtight container in the fridge, gently warm and serve the next day... when it's even better.

After a bowl of it don't be surprised if you star giving directions by time as opposed to distance, without any mention to street names and referencing landmarks that no longer exist. "Do you know where the big red barn used to be?  No?  It burned down in 1978, terrible fire..."   Among the things I found most endearing about Nova Scotia and it's people.  (Hope to see you soon Nova Scotia!)

Bundle up, stay warm and eat chowder.

You may notice that there is a differance in consistency from the top shot to this one. The top bowl is second day chowder, thicker and creamer.

From time to time, our resident Food Gypsy Health & Wellness Advisor drops us a line on what's good for yee old bod - and why.

Dr. Kubie: Dr. Josef Kubinec (aka: Dr. Joe), BPT, CPMA – is a physiotherapist, sports medicine specialist, acupuncturist, former organic farmer and restaurateur; currently based in Clementsport, NS, Canada.  He's a busy guy but he makes time for a little Gypsy gab when he can (between sticking pins in patients). 

His acupuncture training took him to China, where he integrated an interest in herbal and Chinese medicine with his western scientific training, giving him a rather unique perspective on food as preventative medicine. 

We call this section of Food Gypsy "Food Vibe" - Oprah has Dr. Oz this Food Gypsy has Dr. Kubie.

Dr. Kubie on the waterfront in Halifax, Canada

Gypsy: So Dr. Joe what's the Food Vibe today?
Dr. Joe: Scapes!  Lots and lots of garlic scapes. 

A scape is the top part of the hard neck garlic plant, that if left in nature, will bloom and seed.  In garlic production, farmers remove the flower, driving the plant's energy into the bulb, making for bigger, juicier bulbs and that is how we get big, fat garlic. 

Not only is this lovely, curly little flower edible, it's packed with nutrition in perfect harmony with what the body needs in its season.  Nature truly is a marvel. 

"One of the biggest benefits of eating local is the seasonal fluctuations in produce and what they offer in the way of nutritional support.   

The earliest spring vegetables and herbs - rhubarb, dandelion greens, nettles, fiddleheads and asparagus - cleanse the kidney, liver, gallbladder and blood and stimulate circulation after a long winter of stagnation. 

As we move forward into late spring/early summer the garden offers us this delicate flower from the Allium family that aids in digestion, is a natural anti-fungal/antibiotic and cholesterol fighter that tastes terrific. 

Garlic is good for the heart, it can actually reverse arterial plaque, it's nature's cardiac conditioner. 

Now consider eating a growing seed; what you're consuming is the plant's effort in sustaining the species.  It puts all it's energy into expanding, so the energy and nutritional value is multiplied.   

Packed with vitamins C and A garlic scapes support the immune system but most importantly - that seed alive with energy." ~ Dr Kubie 

He's big on energy, it's what keeps us breathing.  I like breathing, it's nice. 

The delicate flower...

Garlic scapes are edible and delicious, you often see them in farmer's markets this time of year, all bright green and curly.  You can eat them raw, sliced in salads, add them to your favorite bruschetta, lightly sautee in a bit of olive oil (or butter) as a side, and (one of my favorites) tempura-ed for a crispy, tasty treat. 

Even better; take that living garlic flower use it as a fresh garlic substitute as bulb garlic gets old, soft and punky - until the fresh cop arrives at harvest time. 

Pack your food processor with whole garlic scapes, a touch of course salt (to act as a preservative), a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and hit that button until you have a smooth green paste. 

From Dr. Kubie's Kitchen; Scape Puree. Sharp and tangy and packed with goodness.

Add nuts of your choice and make scape pesto or leave it fresh and use it in any recipe the same way you would use garlic.  Garlic scape paste freezes beautifully and, unlike it's bulbus brother, it leaves little garlic 'after fume' making you kissable and people friendly. 

"I like the explosiveness of the energy" says Dr. Kubie "you taste that sunshine, that brightness, in every bite. 

I take the scape paste and smear it on a nice rare rib steak. The essence of garlic, without the burn." 

Mmmmm.  Sunshine in every bite.  Now that's energy.

Dr. Kubie's Kitchen; the making of Scape Paste. On the left is another of his health marvels: Dulce Salt. A topic for another day on Food Vibe.

It's not just "Princess Ribcurry" alone in the kitchen anymore...

  

WELCOME TO MY KITCHEN...
... the conversation is great.  We laugh a lot.

And there’s real food.  Honest to goodness real food.  If it doesn’t have a mother or come from the ground, it’s not in my kitchen.  All the food you see on Food Gypsy is REAL, in fact directly after we took its picture... we ate it.  There's no wax or motor oil on Food Gypsy, unless we're talkin' about cars.   

Good food starts with good ingredients. I wouldn’t dream of serving you anything less. It’s the same with great conversations. A measure of respect, a big handful of humour and a bottle of wine never hurt.  Food Gypsy is an ever expanding conversation and we are... expanding.    

First and foremost we have a new publishing schedule (please commit this to memory) now posting Fresh Food Gypsy Tuesdays, Thursdays and sometimes on Sunday.    

Every second Sunday you can look forward to posts on my favorite subject: BACON.  How I've held back for so long is beyond me, but the floodgates are now open.   

We also have a couple of new characters in the kitchen, stirring the pot, so let's make some introductions:

Astrid: Astrid DesLandes (aka: The French Girl) is our Food Gypsy Editor and best-est Gypsy friend. Originally from Marseille, France, currently residing in Calgary, AB Canada, she is the source for fashion advice and Gluten Free cooking.  We look forward to her posts on all things yummy and... 'sans gluten'.   

Astrid also makes a wicked tapenade and endorses the use of cream and butter because... well... she's French.  She also makes a lot of stuff with cheese and those things are often accompanied by wine.   

As a dyslexic wanderer, I am grateful for spell-check and ubersmart BFF’s.  Please, don't get her started on shoes.   

Ben: Chef Benoit Gelinotte, Chef Instructor at Le Cordon Bleu, Ottawa (aka: The French Dude and 'the man in my life') also acts as the Food Gypsy Technical Advisor (which means I call and ask him stupid questions, and he sometimes hijacks my plating).   

Originally from Dijon, France, Chef Benoit received his B.E.P - B.P. - B.T.S in culinary arts in 1991, relocating to Canada in 1992. He's worked in several acclaimed kitchens in both countries, and has a great love - of butter and salt.  (He knows a thing or two about wine too.)  

This weekend, making Beignets for a Mardi Gras post (coming this Thursday) brought back fond memories of his Grandmother, Chef Georgette, and the mountains of food and many hours he was gladly pressed into service in her kitchen.   

Hmmm... interesting that the Food Gypsy support team is French.  I'm sure there's a lingerie commercial in there somewhere.  Please, don't get him started on shoes.   

Magnus: (aka: Mags, Magzie) My furry companion, currently residing with my mother in Nova Scotia, soon to join me in Ottawa. He has no opposable thumbs but plenty of opinions.  Opinion # 1: there should be a special tap in the kitchen for gravy.  Opinion # 2: Broccoli, yuck.  He’s not fat… he’s a bulldog.   

I miss him. He's not French.   

Sandi: Sandi Harrison (aka: Miss Sandi Joy) - BA Ed, MA, is originally from Terrace, BC Canada and currently residing in Dalian, China teaching English to teenage boys.  Sandi is also a talented writer working on her first novel, avid traveler and our very first Food Gypsy Correspondent.   

What are the odds of two Gypsies in the same family? Miss Sandi Joy is my cousin... go ahead, cry nepotism. (As an only child I have to really reach for relatives). When you read her you'll find a similar wit but a unique voice backed by solid photography skills.   

Hoping to hear regularly from Sandi, to answer such questions as: is there American take-out in China?   

Sandi recently returned from a journey to India and the tale of her adventure with Indian Street Food runs next week, followed by some spicy recipes from the Gypsy Kitchen. (Nothing like Indian spice mid-winter to really WARM you up.)   

Next week is Bollywood week in the Gyspy Kitchen - in my alternate reality my life is a Bollywood Musical - there is high drama, sparkly bracelets and lots of eye liner.   

Dr. Kubie: Dr. Josef Kubinec (aka: Dr. Joe), BPT, CPMA –physiotherapist, sports medicine specialist, acupuncturist, former organic farmer and restaurateur; currently based in Clementsport, NS, Canada.  Well traveled, particularly in the far east, having studied acupuncture in China, he brings a whole different skill set to the kitchen.   

Dr. Kubie's a busy guy but he’s promised to drop by on a regular basis and feed us some great food stuff to keep us healthy - between sticking pins in patients.   

Did you know some of your favorite stuff is GOOD for you? Fiddleheads, huge in anti-oxidants; and cheese: good brain food. Can’t wait to hear about bacon.   

Oprah has Dr. Oz. This Food Gypsy has Dr. Kubie.   

And then there's... YOU.  We're delighted to launch our new Foodie Forum on Food Gypsy this week. (No idea how it works... but how hard can it be? I'll figure it out.)   

Tell us about yourself and your foodie frolics in our new Foodie Forum. We'll post a topic and you can ask questions, tell us where you’ve been, what you’re cooking. Then once a month a reader submission will be featured on Food Gypsy Under 'Gypsy Kitchen'.  Always happy to let someone do a little cooking in my kitchen.   

So whether you're a fanatical foodie, a culinary student, a passionate traveler, cookin' for friends and family, or are the King/Queen of dining out, if you have a story to share --- we want to hear from you.

Food is our greatest common denominator, what better way to get acquainted?   

Come on in.  Join the party.  Let's open a bottle of wine and... we'll chat.   

Life is supposed to be FUN.

The dog kissing the lobster, the Maritime version of 'kosher'.

May in Nova Scotia, a welcome relief from the heat of Mexico, the Yucatan was baking in 35*, arriving at the  Halifax airport, at 15* there was a very decided need for a sweater.  A month ago the Annapolis Valley was grey and dry and now it is a thousand shades of green.  Spring has arrived without me.   

Back.  Back to dogs and items of business, both old and new and solutions to effect for equipment and stuff... what to do with one’s stuff?  Decisions.   

Let it never be said that being a grown up is all fun and games.  With the responsibilities we take on there come times when we must make very uncomfortable choices.    We know they are the ‘right’ choices... but there lingers for a time a deep sadness and doubt before moving on to acceptance.  

Business to close.  Facts and figures and sums and payments.  Business to open.  Design and layout and hosting and format.  Experts do their job, you do yours.  All very cut and dried.  Easy. What is the right time to say goodbye to a good and trusted, loyal friend?  That is hard.  Where is there advice on that?  

How do you choose a day for them to depart knowing that they are in pain?   A question every pet owner knows they may face someday.   For the last seven years I have been the leader of a pack of three; a sassy bulldog, Magnus (Mags), and my sweet little girl, a West Highland Terrier named Zoë.  At the Dragonfly we all had jobs, including the dogs, Magnus our concierge and Zoë , head of security.  Now, we must all find new vocations.  

Mags arrived seven years ago, when he was three.  He had horrible manners.   He bacame mine by defalut when the man who brought him into my life, left abruptly. “I don’t know what I’m going to do with Magnus” he said and I said “Oh, I don’t think you understand what’s going on here....”   I love that dog.  Now he runs the joint, cries for gravy, loves a good shoe.  He’s all boy.  

My little dog, 16 years old, was with me from a pup.  We’ve been through a lot together.  Roommates.  Boyfriends.  Jobs.  No jobs.  Moves.  Sha has been my constant companion and champion and every night at 5o’clock we walked.  Every night.  Until recently.   

Liver cancer.   

It wasn’t fast.  In fact, it was very slow.  She would have long periods of remission, being bouncy and happy but each time  it returned the pain got more intense and this winter we began a pain journal for Miss Zoza.  The bad days far outnumbered the good by spring.  It was time to let her go.   

We spent a week making it the very best week we could, there were countless bowls of ice cream and sherbet and a little puppy party with all of her favorite people and dogs and then I had to hold true to one of the most heart wrenching decisions I have ever had to make --- and put my dog down.      

I know it was right but it still hurts like hell.  I miss her little face.  

There was this space in my life previously filled, now, suddenly empty.  Her little bed beside my desk, which he now thinks is his.  

The best thing about dogs - the reason so many of us seek them as companions in life - they live in the moment.  So while I grieved a loss of the white fur-ball that slept on the foot of the bed for 16 years, the bulldog moved on and to keep up, so did I.   

We kept only or memories and the most precious things about her and let everything else go.  

Now we are a pack of two and this leader has no idea where home is next; so it’s off to Camp Grandma’s for the boy... where there’s a big garden to run in and puppy pools to paddle in and bouncing big dogs to run with and snacks in the shade.   

While I go off in search of 'home'... wherever that may be.

Guests enjoy a quiet relaxed atmosphere in the dining room; the Hillsdale House is everything a country inn should be.  Elegant.  Stately.  Polished.  A place to forget about traffic and deadlines, after all it is... Nova Scotia. 

 The Maritimes is special niche in Canada’s diverse patchwork of provinces and territories.  Having driven it, coast to coast (in January, always move across Canada in the middle of winter, that’s my motto) one can reasonably say "it’s big".  Very big.  

 We are a mighty land with shining cities but it is the in between places that make Canada a unique nation.  Small towns, villages, long stretches of open highway, lakes, trees, mountains, prairies and two coasts. Originally, I’m from the other coast.  

Canadians are few.  Thirty-eight million of us (give or take), scattered about in this BIG, wide land - we like our space. When I first moved to Nova Scotia in 2005 I discovered a new term for outsiders; they call us “come from away”.  That is to say, “you weren't born here, Sonny Jim”. 

I soon learned that there were many like me, looking for a way of life that fit both inner values and outer ambition, it's a hard marriage to make and it is, I believe, the underpinning attraction that many have to Nova Scotia.    It’s easy to love. 

Nova Scotia is beautiful to the extreme.  Safe.  Quiet.  People go home at 5 o’clock to have dinner with their family.  Keeping your lawn mowed is mighty important, almost as important as your garden, your community and going to church.  It’s 1956, in the best possible sense. 

Like me, Val Pederson came from Calgary to visit and moved, lock stock and barrel to be a Nova Scotian innkeeper.  Ten years later everything in her life has changed except for one thing, her title "Nova Scotian Innkeeper".  In her fifth season with the Hillsdale House, it is a love and passion for her. Val is such an overachiever she even makes her own bread, which guests love as fresh cut toast, first thing in the morning and which she shares with Food Gypsy (Val's 'Old School, Nova Scotia Brown Bread' - click here).    

 “I just can’t imagine my life without it now”  Val says of inn life, flitting back and forth in the kitchen checking waffles as we chat “I guess the biggest surprise was the fact that it’s not all about drinking wine with guests in the afternoon.”    

 It’s not?!   

No, it’s not.  I speak from experiance, the volume of cleaning and laundry is enough to make anyone shudder, but the rewards are so validating you hardly think about those things. 

Fresh waffles, free range eggs, Nova Scotia berries and maple syrup all in the larder at the Hillsdale House.  Val has a fetish for wild blueberries, which she shares with guests.  (Such a delicious berry to bake.)  Plates fly out of the kitchen as we chat, more coffee to brew, more waffles to make as breakfast comes to a close. 

“And what are the moments that matter?”  Val smiles - it’s an easy question to answer.    

“Last year we had a mother & daughter from Washington, DC, stay with us for several days.  When they left there was a  two page letter from 9 year-old Lindsay, written in felt pen... with pictures and stars all over... all about the fun she’d had, how cool it was, with a big ‘Hillsdale House Rocks!’ in the middle.  

 It lived on our fridge all season long.  Having a bad day?  Look at the fridge.  ‘Hillsdale House Rocks!’  That’s all that matters.”     

Val’s partner in life and business, Nova Scotia born Paul Stackhouse is the quiet type, the kind of man you know is thinking all the time.   Checking on the coffee pots he laughs as Val tells the tale of Lindsay’s ‘rockin’’ letter and poses for a photo in the kitchen.  He gives Val a little squeeze... “we do rock” he says smiling.  She laughs and shrugs “Yeah, I guess we do”.    

With Hillsdale House Inn taking home such honours as Nova Scotia Innkeepers of the Year (2010) and the Travelers Choice Award 2010, from Trip Advisor... yes, they do rock. 

04/11/11 Gypsy update: this just in; TripAdvisor recognizes Hillsdale House Inn with a 2011 Travellers’ Choice Award placing it among the top 10 B&B’s/Inns in Canada.  This is the second consecutive year that the Inn has been honoured with this award. Once again Hillsdale House Inn is the only recipient east of Ontario. (full story)

Congratulations Val & Paul from your favorite Gypsy.  Wishing you a wonderful season... rock it.

519 St. George Street
Annapolis Royal, Nova Scotia, Canada
Toll Free: 1-877-839-2821   
http://www.hillsdalehouseinn.ca 

The cuisine creator behind The Tempest Restaurant in Wolfville, Nova Scotia, Chef Michael Howell knows seafood.  Growing up in Chester, Nova Scotia, and graduate of the Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago, his travels spanned large chunks of the globe for 20 years, Chef Howell has a particular sensitivity to the fruits of the sea. 

I first saw Chef Howell on an episode of “Opening Soon” on Food Network Canada’s watching as he and his wife, and partner, Mary Harwell  built The Tempest from the ground up.  Many years later, I found myself, a new resident of Nova Scotia, in his restaurant enjoying his food and becoming an even bigger fan of the ease with which he creates.  

His first cookbook, Atlantic Seafood showcases 50 recipes, with Howell’s unique approach and attention to detail, all beautifully photographed with easy to follow directions.  

Admittedly, some of the recipes are advanced for the armature cook.  Which is exactly why I bought it.   I like a challenge in the kitchen. I enjoy the process of taking a completely new technique and learning as I go.   Sometimes that ends in complete disaster (read: smoke, temper tantrums, tears, take-out) but I will go at something until I get it right and Chef Howell inspires me with Atlantic Seafood ---he makes me want to learn. 

For my money, the best parts of the book are the little asides profiling each seafood and its unique properties, how Howell likes to approach each one and why.  It makes for a more personal read, admission to the kitchen if you will.  

A stunningly beautiful cookbook to add to your collection. Atlantic Seafood, Recipes from Chef Michael Howell, from Nimbus Publishing.  Available at select bookstores, Amazon.ca, The Tempest Restaurant and The Tempest booth at the Wolfville Farmer’s Market - $24.95 (CAD)  Traveling Nova Scotia?   Here's Food Gypsy’s take on The Tempest Restaurant - Wolfville, Nova Scotia.   Take your appetite.  

Atlantic Seafood, a taste of Nova Scotia, in your kitchen.     

In the heart of Wolfville, Nova Scotia, on the shores of the Minas Basin where the tides roll back to reveal the long, red, mud flats - is a whirling little restaurant called The Tempest.     

Before setting out on my Food Gypsy adventures,I took some time to visit a few of my favourite foodie hang-outs, so that I could pass them on to you.   Over the last 5 years, as the proprietor at the Dragonfly Inn in Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley, I've been advising travelers on the best eats in Nova Scotia, the Tempest has wowed even the most discerning palate.    

Like the Shakespeare play from which it draws its name, The Tempest is a romance of food and seduction of flavour with the dramatic undertone of a hand that understands subtlety and fusion.     

The upscale dining room has a decidedly Italian feel, white table cloths, dark wood and leather club chairs.  The mood is serene and the menu boasts local, sustainable product; complete with a list of local suppliers who are an integral part of The Tempest food experience.     

Borrowing from Chef Michael Howell’s extensive travels, his World Cuisine lends flare to local fare.  An advocate for Slow Food Nova Scotia and honours graduate of the Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago, Michael’s passion is obvious.     

The artful plating, the sensational parings and a wine list that boasts some truly outstanding vintages, the Tempest is an outstanding culinary treat southwest in Nova Scotia.    I keep coming back, again and again to see what new menu Michael offers,year to year, will he thrill me with his Crispy Calamariwith lemon aioli?   Will he delight me with the Butter Poached Nova Scotia Lobster with citrus risotto, taproot spinach and lobster au jus?     

On rare occasions, family holidays and festive occasions, you find new delights offered in a buffet.  This spring I ventured forth on Mother’s Day (Mom in tow) for a Mother’s Day buffet, Tempest style.      

Buffet, Tempest style... fresh and fabulous.

Buffets are tricky, they’re notorious for mediocre food left to stand under lights and steam under lids.  The wisdom of a truly great chef: “keep it fresh”.  The wisdom of a fanatical foodie: “taste everything”.    

Fennel Sausage, Eggs Florentine (still soft poached, with a fresh hollandaise), Savoury Crab Cakes with lemon aioli, Asparagus with Prosciutto, Pasta Salad in a tangy vinaigrette, fresh fiddleheads lightly sauteed and a Tourtiere which stopped me in my tracks.    

“Is that orange I taste?!”      Yes, indeed.  Marmalade to be exact.  A sweet and savoury interpretation of the classic French Canadian meat pie, in the heart of Acadia country.   The Tourtiere sent me back for seconds.     

We shared dessert. We had to.  After all, we are minding our girlish figures (kind of).  Fresh Fruit Salad, tangy Strawberry-Rhubarb Crisp and Cheese Cake Brownies, heavy on the cheese, heavy on the chocolate.  Just a taste.  A wee nibble.  A mere morsel.    

Serving lunch Friday, Saturday & Sunday and dinner Tuesday through Sunday, The Tempest is closed on Monday.  Reservations are strongly recommended in the high season (July – September).  Go.  Enjoy.  Bring your appetite.     

One last thing, be sure to pick up Chef Howell’s first cook book “Atlantic Seafood, Recipes from Chef Michael Howell". Stunning photos, easy to follow recipes and outstanding seafood advice.  Here's an inside, Food Gypsy taste.   It’s worth it.    

Nova Scotia’s The Tempest - the calm in the storm.    

117 Front Street Wolfville, Nova Scotia Canada (902)542-0588  www.tempest.ca    

A shared dessert, more than just a morsel.

It smells good.  No, strike that, it does not smell good, it smells fantastic.  With a kitchen this creative and ingredients this pure, the Wooden Monkey thrills the senses from the moment you walk through the door.

Over the last 5 years, as the proprietor at the Dragonfly Inn in Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley, I've been advising travelers on the best eats in Nova Scotia.  Before setting out on my new life and the Central America leg of the Life from Scratch Food Gypsy Tour, I took some time to visit a few of my favourite foodie hang-outs so that I could pass them on to you.

The Wooden Monkey, in the heart of Halifax, simply cannot be missed.  Just off infamous Argyll Street, where food competition is stiff, the big yellow and brick building on the corner of Grafton & Prince stands out, even on a foggy day.

It’s a popular spot, so it never hurts to call in advance.  The cuisine is far from haute and the clientele like it that way.  We are a casual bunch, borderline groovy.  University students on lunch, a group of women celebrating something (when, as women, are we not celebrating something?) and me out for lunch with Mom.

Come to think of it, we were celebrating something also.  Sort of.  (If you don't have a birthday, you don't age, right?)  Never turn down a free lunch and, never turn down lunch at "The Monk".

The menu at the Wooden Monkey is based on organic, macrobiotic, and locally grown, fresh ingredients; they take my ‘health’ seriously.  I love that they do so with cream and cheese and sauces of every description.

I feel healthier already.

One evening, while waiting for a table at the upstairs bar, I asked the bartender if they had “organic vodka” for that dirty martini (there may have been a hint of sarcasm in my voice).   That’s when I learned about their selection of organic sprits; vodka, gin, rum, brandy and liquors as well as several juices and sparkling beverages, which augment the extensive organic wines selection.

Organic booze.  It has to be good for you.

Our server Melanie, like all the friendly Monkey staff, had a solid grasp of the food and technique behind the menu.  Every question we asked she answered, even if she had to go to the kitchen to find out.

Good food takes time.  Give yourself a little extra time at the Wooden Monkey; the food is worth it.  Sometimes I like to watch the plates come out just to see the special, or something I’ve never tired before.  “Hi, my name is Cori, I’m a food voyeur.”

It’s a colourful way to begin.

Their trio of house made dips; hummus, a roasted red pepper goat cheese dip, and a sweet potato chipotle served with pita wedges is a solid start.  The black bean hummus is creamy and garlicky against the spicier red pepper and the sweet, smokey potato.

As we enjoyed our appetiser, the sun broke through the mist on this late spring day to flood the dining room and illuminate the saffron walls, highlighting the eclectic art collection, including a quirky assortment of… wooden monkeys.

When in Nova Scotia, eat seafood.

The Scallop and Sun dried Tomato Pasta is heavy with roasted garlic, mushrooms, onions, basil pesto, and served on organic brown rice noodles and finished with a dash of cream and parmesan cheese.  Health food.   Gluten free and everything!

One of my favourite menu items is the Sesame Crusted Haddock, seared, served with organic brown rice pilaf, finished with an organic orange reduction and crispy leeks.  Savoury, nutty, crispy, salty and sweet, it is a candidate for the perfect bite.  The added karma; fish that’s hook & line caught!  Add 'sustainable' to the list of food attributes.

Regrettably Dear Reader, on this occasion we were entirely too satiated to even consider dessert. I can, however, vouch for their Chocolate Tofu Pie.  Equally regrettable, they do not feature this recipe on their website, maybe they will share it with Food Gypsy.  You never know.  Made with non-dairy chocolate and silken tofu on an almond walnut cinnamon crust, the Chocolate Tofu Pie is the most amazing surprise.  Rich, smooth, creamy.  It bested many a mousse.   It made me want a whole pie.

What?!  It’s tofu.  That’s… a bean.  Add cocoa, that’s… a bean.  Clearly then, the Chocolate Tofu Pie is… a vegetable!  Even sugar comes from plants.  Vegetables.  They’re good for you.

Eat your vegetables.

Taste Nova Scotia at the Wooden Monkey.

1707 Grafton Street, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada  (902) 444-3844  www.thewoodenmonkey.ca

A candidate for the perfect bite, the Sesame Crusted Haddock.

A little sign next to the menu under the glass top table reads:  Soup is Love.  It's safe to say that love is a key ingredient in everything that comes from the kitchen at Leo’s Café.   

For the last 5 years, as the Innkeeper at the Dragonfly Inn - Annapolis Royal, NS I've been advising travelers on the best eats in Nova Scotia.  Before setting out on the Central America leg of the Life from Scratch Food Gypsy Tour, I took some time to visit a few of my favorite foodie hang-outs,  so that I could pass them on to you.   

One of the great treasures in Annapolis Royal; Leo’s Café serves lunch.  Period.  Doing one thing and doing it well for over 15 years, the ambiance is everything you’d expect from Nova Scotia – casual, relaxed, comfortable - and the food is everything it should be; consistently good.   

The open beams overhead are hand hewn, marked by time, much like the town itself, a tiny piece of Canadian history.  The dining area is homey, shelves are lined with jars of mustard, chutney, preserves, spices and teas, plus a selection of knives and handy gadgets for the food fixated among us.  Chef and proprietor Paula Buxton stocks her shelves with quality, hardworking products that last.  A tremendous resource for Nova Scotia cooks.   

The kitchen starts its baking early, with loaf after loaf of fresh bread.  Leo's is famous for it's bread, fresh sandwiches are served on hand-cut, fresh-baked,  Nova Scotia brown bread.  The menu is simple: sandwiches, "signature" sandwiches, soup, salads, desserts.   Salads are crisp and sharp and the daily soups  – one a vegetarian option – are the perfect warm-up on a cool day.   

Among their "signature" sandwiches the Café  Club reigns supreme.  Real cheddar, smoked bacon, sliced chicken, lettuce, tomato and real mayo.  Nothing is pressed, nothing is fake.  Layered on three toasted slices of that homemade fresh bread, it’s so big it’s a chore to eat… not that we mind.   Some do it with a knife and fork.   

To each their own.  

Some might call it salad between two pieces of bread; Leo's "Famous" Veggie Sandwich, made with sunflower spread, piled high with cheese, tomato, cucumber, and mushrooms, topped with alfalfa spouts is a huge hit with vegetarians and omnivores alike.   The sunflower seed spread is addictive.  Nutty and slightly salty.  Leo's feeds that obsession... they sell it in bulk.  

My best tip for Leo’s remains:  “Do not leave without dessert!”  CIA (Culinary Institute of America) trained chef and Paula, bakes fresh daily.  Killer brownies.  Snowballs.  Chocolate Pecan Pie.  Apple Gingerbread.   German Plum Cake.  Rhubarb Pie.  Skor Cheesecake.  Strawberry Shortcake made with Nova Scotia’s old fashioned strawberries and real whipped cream.   

All fresh, all made with seasonal, local ingredients.  Don’t expect to find strawberry shortcake if it’s not strawberry season, or a pumpkin pie if it’s not fall.  The dessert case is jammed with sugar laden treats listed on the chalkboard above.  On the rare occasion when there is one piece of pie left… order it befpre someone else does.   

 Trust me.      

Paula is a Goddess with all things sweet.   Her “Mile High Lemon Meringue Pie” is worthy of engineering specs.  How does she do it?  Maybe one day she’ll tell me her secret.  Until that day, I faithfully eat my greens so I can have dessert.    

Leo’s Café caters for local events just give them a call.  For those who love a great picnic, with a little advance notice, they’ll whip up a picnic lunch and with absolutely no notice at all, they’ll wrap that Chocolate Pecan Pie to go.   You know --- just in case.   

A true taste of Nova Scotia.  

Leo’s Café– 222 St George Street, Annapolis Royal, Nova Scotia, Canada ( 902- 532-7424)
SEASONAL (April - November) Open 6 days a week: Monday – Saturday 9AM – 4PM, (licensed)

The Lemon Meringue... just perfect.