Known in Ottawa as THE maritime-hillbilly, loud and rowdy, tiny postage-stamp-sized place with the morals of a sailor and the ethics of a librarian; The Whalesbone Oyster House is a downtown haven for seafood lovers with a heart.

The all Canadian, sustainably sourced, Ocean Wise approved menu is tight and lean; four appetizers, four mains.  The ambiance is rustic maritime with a hint of redneck; bare brick walls and a touch of tin, a bike hangs in the corner, the art is relaxed and casual.  The lighting is low and the kitchen is open concept; like a picture window at the back of the narrow room.  The Whalesbone seats maybe thirty-five covers, on utilitarian chairs and long benches, that look as if they hose down easily.

The wine list is sensible, the beer list is plentiful and behind the bar you'll find not an ounce of green apple liqueur; "we don't have those fancy liquors here".  That's right.  It's hard liquor and oysters baby, ain't no frou-frou umbrella girly drinks, that would ruin it.  The Whalesbone Oyster House focuses on noble ingredients, served with a dash of sass and a giant measure of real world values.

I walked in with my best friend, visiting from Calgary, on a what had suddenly become a girl's night out, as my better-half had bowed out of the evening at the last minute.  "He's going to feel REALLY BAD later" said my BFF Astrid in her typical French style, one eyebrow up.  As I walked though the door of The Whalesbone on a cold February night, I quickly understood what she meant as a cheer of "SURPRISE!" met me, quickly followed by a corus of questions pertaining to the whereabouts of my betrothed.

Ha, didn't bring the groom... SURPRISE!

Yes, my beloved Chef B, had backed out of a surprise engagement party organized, at a distance by my best gal Astrid, and on the ground by my darling Diane.  (Surprise!)  They spent MONTHS lying to me, pumping me for restaurants on my wish list and scoping me on Facebook.  (Seriously, what are friends for?!)   Around the table was a gathering of some of our favorite people and he... stayed home.

Now, any couple will tell you this is not a tragedy but an opportunity for a little guilt.   One phone call and he was on the road, breaking speed limits and deeply apologetic, all night long.  We can safely say he'll never do that again.

The tardy groom dons his feathers...

As we settled in, it quickly came out that I was an oyster first-timer and there was an immediate need to remedy the situation.  Our server, Meryl, guided us through the choices;

"Tonight we have Raspberrypoints from PEI, Malagash Thrumcaps from Nova Scotia and one west coast choice; Marina's Gold, all choice size ($3.15/shell).  And the St. Simone, from New Brunswick in the cocktail size ($2.95/ shell). "

The St. Simone being the smallest, I opted for that variety.  As a general rule; the smaller the oyster, the sweeter the taste.  I'm not known for overt pickiness at the table, but I'm not fond of certain textures and "slime" is one texture that has never appealed.

"They look like snot..." I protested.  Meryl agreed "luggies of the sea my Dad calls them."  I like Meryl's Dad, but I am nothing, if not willing.  When in Rome...

I had plenty of encouragement from those around the table:
"Loosen it with your fork."
"Do I use lemon before or after?  Is this like tequila?"
"Before, just a squeeze.  Then you chase it with scotch.  It's like reverse tequila..."
"What's this cheesy looking stuff ?" (referring to what could be mistaken for shredded cheese on the side)
"Careful with that, its fresh horseradish and it's hot!"  

Condiment options included a sweet cocktail sauce, malt vinegar, an in-house hot sauce (that will melt your socks), Tabasco Red, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco Green, a Caribbean hot sauce that is sweet-hot and last, a vinegar bottle filled with scotch.

Why mess with nature's perfection?  I went classic; a squeeze of lemon and a quick chase of scotch.  I was forced to chew, and I'm glad I did because it was that burst of salty, briny flavour that helped me understand what all the fuss is about.  Cold and clean, like brisk breeze off the Atlantic with the tide out and the mudflats exposed; salty, windy and wild.  Still not my favorite texture, but in small  doses (with boozy chasers) I could grow to like oysters.   (Surprise!)

As the evening progressed there were multiple empty shells on beds of ice, as we slurped and sucked our way though photo ops wearing mandatory feather boas. We were loud and a touch obnoxious and, we fit right in.

It was a busy night, the place was packed.  The kitchen did exactly what I would have done, pump out plates to the two deuces (that arrived and ordered after us) so they could concentrate on our table of nine.  Perfectly acceptable and appropriate.   If the Whalesbone itself is a shoe box, the kitchen is a matchbox, tight and efficient.  So I was not surprised to see our food come out in stages, over the course of several minutes, in fact I expected it.

What I did not expect, in a restaurant that hinges on seafood, was to have to send my Sockeye Steak Frites with Arugula, Truffle Mayo and Red Wine Reduction ($33.00 ) back to the kitchen -- twice.   (Surprise!)  It happens, no biggie, but at $33 I expect my fish to be cooked to pink (as requested).  First it was over-cooked, then it was under-cooked but when it returned the third time, it was perfect.

I'll admit that put a damper on my evening and not because it's the first time I've sent a meal back to the kitchen but because I really didn't want to have to dish on anything negative on a such a lovely (surprising) evening and a venue that exudes such charm.  Our server apologized profusely.  It pays to mention that on the night in question,  Chef Chloe Berlanga (who moved up the line, taking over from Chef Charlotte Langley last December) did not appear to be in the kitchen.

The good news is, this gave me ample time to get feedback on everyone's meals:

"The scallops are PERFECT... I've got squash and plum and hazelnuts... there's a lot going on here!" said Astrid, of the Seared Scallop with Fois Gras, Squash Puree and Hazelnuts ($19) appetizer she enjoyed as her main.  I would agree, it was my option as an appetizer and the scallops were seasoned and seared to absolute perfection, translucent and juicy with the taste of the Bay of Fundy still evident.

"The lobster mashed ROCKS, it's got BACON in it" reported Brenda at the other end of the table and that was heartily echoed by Lisanne and Sean.  Braised Beef Short Rib on Lobster Scallion Bacon Mashed Potatoes, with Rabini, Jus and Gremolada ($37).   "The short rib is fall-off-the-bone tender" gushed Diane, through her feathers.  (Gremolada: a condiment made with lemon zest, garlic, and parsley.)

"Perfect walleye, great balance of flavour and I even like the [chipotle] barbecue sauce..." said Chef B, my loving fiancé.   Hold the phone, he LIKED a barbecue sauce?!  Honey, take that one to the bank. He's not a fan of savory and sweet but he downed the Walleye with Calypso Beans, Chipotle, Sour Cream, Lime and Toasted Almonds ($30) in record time.

Following our meal there were shots... of scotch.  What!? Your engagement party didn't include shooting hard liquor?  (Surprise!)  And a selection of sweets around the table.  There was a general consensus that the Hot Chocolate with Fresh Cinnamon Doughnuts ($11.00) was "the bomb".

Will my little fish hiccup stop me from returning to The Whalesbone?  No, not in a million years.  I love a place with a raunchy vibe that doesn't take itself too seriously.  Is The Whalesbone Oyster House menu pricey?  Yes it is, but my friends, that's the price you pay for sustainable seafood, line-caught, farmed in sound conditions and approved by the watchers of the sea at Ocean Wise.

Is The Whalesbone a setting for a quiet, romantic evening for two?  No.  It's a place for a hedonistic pleasure cruise without guilt,  punctuated by shots and empty shells, after which you return home to tear each other's clothes off.   Well, that's my interpretation anyway.

Bottoms up. (Surprise!)

Thank you to Astrid, Diane, Danica, Brenda, Pat, Lisanne & Sean for a wonderful evening!
Additional photo credit:  Danica Guibord

The Whalesbone Oyster House
430 Bank Street, Ottawa, ON
(613) 231-8569 ‎
thewhalesbone.com

Consider this your personal guide to caviar with Chef Benoit Gelinotte's Do's and Dont's or, as I like to call it; The Gospel of Caviar According to Chef B.

Ever try caviar? I'm a new convert myself (where I'm from fish eggs are called bait).  Luckily I have a talented Chef de Cuisine in my life to take me by the hand and guide me, and now, so do you.  Often we try things without the benefit of good advice and then wonder why we're so underwhelmed.  That is the experience many first timers have with caviar; there they stand with a jar of very expensive fish roe in hand saying "what's the big deal?"

It's easy to get something very wrong if you don't know how to do it right.

That was Chef B's first experience with caviar too.  On vacation in Argeles Sur Mer, in the south of France as a young chef-in-training and he was staggered by the local fish market.  Traveling (regrettably) by train he was determined to drag four 2-pound lobsters, a dozen French sardines, two whole fish and a jar of caviar --- on ice --- all the way to home to Dijon.  "I was 21 years old and wanted to impress, and at the time my general rule was: expensive equals good.  So I HAD to have caviar and, I was not impressed."

How did Chef B convert to the caviar aficionado he is today?  

"Over the last 25 years working in restaurants [some] with Michelin Star status, you get the occasional sneak-preview of special jars leaving the kitchen; properly iced, perfectly preserved, precisely served.  Then you begin to appreciate not only the taste of each, but the different colours, the unique properties and the LUXURY of the time honored tradition that is caviar."

Iranian Sevruga Caviar

A Brief History of Caviar

There is a tradition surrounding the Caspian Sea for hundreds, if not thousands, of years that has come to represent one of our planet's most luxurious foods.  Simply put, caviar is sieved and lightly salted Sturgeon roe. The primary types of caviar are Beluga, Sterlet, Ossetra (Imperial Ossetra & Karaburun Ossetra) and Sevruga.

The rarest and most expensive is the beluga sturgeon caviar, primarily imported from Russia & Iran.  Not only is it rare and expensive, it's taboo: beluga is protected as a threatened species under the Endangered Species Act.

Caviar Economics

Where there's trade, there will be enterprise and caviar has welcomed several new producers over the last 25 years; France, the United States and Canada have all stepped up production of caviar.  Species of sturgeon can live as long as 100 years, and cannot begin to be caviar harvested until they are ten years old; it will be interesting to see how quality develops as farming continues.  Still, good quality local caviar can be enjoyed by those willing to indulge.

Depending on specific national laws (and the liberal misuse of culinary terminology), the name "caviar" may also be used to describe other fish roes such as salmon, steelhead, trout, whitefish and other species of sturgeon such as paddlefish and shortnose.  Your local supermarket might also carry something they call lumpfish caviar.  These are eggs from unknown providence, ink dyed and then labeled caviar.

Let's do a little caviar cost breakdown:

• Imperial Ossetra (Iranian)- $340 /50g (2 oz)
• Paddlefish (American) - $80 /50g (2 oz)
• Shortnose (Canadian) - $95 /50g (2oz)
• Lumpfish (Not known) - $8 /100g (3.5 oz)

The perfect bite

Caviar & Where to Start

"So," I ask Chef B "should the novice start with lumpfish then?"

His eyes get big and buggy "don't even waste your money on lumpfish, it will ruin you for LIFE.  Instead, if you're a first time caviar buyer start with a decent local caviar in small quantities.  You can get serving sizes as small as 25g (1oz)  That way if you don't like it, no big deal"  he shrugs.  

"Of course if you DO like it, it's a slippery slope!"

Caviar essentials: crushed ice, mother of pearl spoons, fresh blinis, finely chopped hard boiled egg, smoked (Coho) salmon and champagne.

Caviar Do's & Dont's

Classic caviar service is simple and elegant. When in doubt let your keyword be luxury and your watchword be neutral.

DO keep caviar refrigerated until ready to serve. Ideally we nestle the entire jar in a bed of crushed ice, with the lid alongside.  This is not only attractive, but also informative to your guests.  Chilling the caviar also tones down the salt and keeps it smooth.

DO accompany caviar with fresh Blinis.  Tiny, yeast risen pancakes (seen here, recipe for French Blinis on Food Gypsy), they are the perfect foil to caviar; light and delicate  "Like tiny little Louis Vuitton caviar pillows" says Chef B.   "In a pinch, toast points will do" he makes a face "and boiled fingerling potatoes.  Think neutral taste, you don't want to overwhelm the key ingredient."

DO use traditional condiments such as chopped hard boiled egg yolks, egg whites, chives, crème fraiche, sour cream, capers, shallots and smoked sturgeon or salmon.  In the case of salmon, Chef  recommends smoked Pacific salmon, as when smoked, Pacific holds its moisture and fat content better than Atlantic.

DO serve with the appropriate beverage; ice cold vodka or aquavit (served at 1*C) or perfectly chilled champagne.

"To me, pearls go with pearls so I prefer champagne.  Many prefer vodka because when it's chilled it is tasteless and odorless.  It's a personal taste thing."  "What about aquavit?"  "OH MY GOD that is DISGUSTING.  I can't stand it, it's just not my thing, but to each their own."  This choice is also largely cultural, you find aquavit served with caviar in Scandinavian countries, vodka in the eastern block and champagne in the west, far & middle east.  What the heck, experiment.

DON'T (EVER) serve caviar with metal utensils.  "EVER!!!  Underline that three times" says Chef B and I know he means it.

"Why, what does the metal do to caviar?" (I ask the stupid questions so you don't have to) "Silver oxidizes and makes a huge mess, stainless steel creates an alkaline reaction and makes that $300 jar of caviar taste tinny.  The reason you see Mother of Pearl spoons featured with caviar is because they're PH neutral, ceramic is also acceptable as is wood or bamboo."  "What about plastic?" (The look I got, you'd think I just taken away Marc Veyrat's Michelin Star myself.)  "Well, plastic is neutral" he says patiently "but when I think luxury I don't think plastic."

DON'T cook with it.  This is more of a plea than an order.  "Please respect the ingredient, it is delicate and perfect just as it is please don't cover it with sauce or sautee it in olive oil," he pauses to shudder "it's best in its purest form."  I must interject "I've seen it in omelettes. Thoughts on that?"  "I know you're thinking 'well if it goes with boiled egg' but the thing is, when you use egg with caviar you use it as a condiment, when you reverse that you loose the essence of the caviar, it's oil."

DO try it.  Just once, at a party on a fancy cruise ship, give it a whirl.  Just one bite, live it up.  

Caviar, pure & simple.

Final Thoughts Novice vs. Expert

The novice would be me, this was my second caviar.  My first introduction to caviar, under the watchful tutelage of the chef in my life was a local, Quebec farmed caviar (which we stumbled upon at the Chelsea Smokehouse) .  I found it salty and slightly smokey, the texture was smooth and very appealing and I realized instantly how addictive this could be.

The feast you see here was our New Year's celebration, a bottle of  Moët & Chandon champagne and a very special jar of Iranian Sevruga Caviar.  By comparison, this caviar was in a whole different stratosphere, it was richer, creamier, slightly nutty and more complex in flavour notes.   Its fragrance is iodine and ocean breeze and its richness reminds me of butter.

"Caviar, the butter of the sea."  ~ Gypsy

This is not how we roll every night, and even if we could I don't think we would, it would take away the opulence of it, the feeling of decadence and indulgence.

Since his first caviar (which he ate with a metal spoon) some 20 odd years ago, Chef B has consumed some of the finest caviar in the world, to great excess.  Among his favorite stories is the tale from his time with Le Cordon Bleu as a guest chef abroad Regent Seven Seas Cruises.  He was in the kitchen when an untouched 200g (7oz) jar of Iranian Imperial Ossetra caviar was about to be thrown in the trash, and he let out a cry of disbelief (read: pain).  "Do you want it?" they asked and Benoit (being Benoit) said "do I want it?!  Of course I want it!"

Later that night, he ordered a bottle of Dom Perignon and freshly showered, he sat in his Regent Cruise line bathrobe on the balcony of his suite, alone, with his bottle of champagne and gigantic jar of caviar and watched a school of flying fish skip the waves of the Caribbean.

Two hundred grams of caviar in one sitting, that's FOUR TIMES the size of the jar you see here and he consumed it all by himself.  My Chef B is not a big guy, he's about 5'6" and weighs in at around 160 but when it comes to caviar...

"Towards the end [of that 200 gram jar] I was washing down each mouthful with champagne," he laughs at himself " it truly was a sin of gluttony.  That was the night I learned there really is such a thing as TOO MUCH caviar.  

It was FANTASTIC." ~ Chef B

So, there really can be too much of a good thing.  Good to know.

Resources & links:
International: Caviar Express (FYI: attached is very informative blog)
Canadian: The Caviar Centre

Still rollin' like a rock star, Chef B finishes the jar after I tag out.

A Nova Scotia seafood chowder, brimming with chunky bits of sea flesh, it's good old fashioned Maritime fare.  When the snow flies there's nothing as satisfying is a big, creamy bowl of chowder.

My first chowder came as a result of living the heart of Nova Scotia's Annapolis Valley in Canada's original town; Annapolis Royal.  There I owned and operated the Dragonfly Inn for five years, in a journey that would change my life and take me into the kitchen.  This chowder is a Christmas Eve favorite for parties, once made it can rest warm in the slow cooker as a hot edition to a big buffet feast.

Took the low and slow approach to this recipe by making a fish fumé (stock made with fish) to start. You don't have to do this for this recipe to be a success.  You can use fish bullion or a bottle of clam juice for that fresh from the sea taste.  I'm not a fan of muscles or clams, they are among the few foods I don't eat (one bad muscle with ruin you for life).

Making a clear broth as a base keeps my skills alive and, as I used salmon, it also helped infuse healthy omega oils into each bowl.  Atlantic salmon in particular is rich in good fats, because the Atlantic is a colder than the Pacific it's fish have more body fat.

I take the omega oils thing one step further when I add the salmon piece whole, skin on (scales removed), into the simmering chowder and allow it to poach.  Once the flesh is opaque, remove the fillet, gently peel off the skin and discard.  Salmon skin is packed with fish oils and I want all the omega oils my fine friend the salmon has to offer.

If you're going all in, you can pick up fish bones (or a fish head) from your local fish counter.  Some times they will give it to you at no charge, or they may charge you as much as fifty cents, it's well worth it.  The head and in particular the gills contain a lot of blood, so you want to be sure you clean and rinse any parts your using in COLD water.   I only used the cheek and front fins, simmered low and slow for 45 minutes with some leaks, seasoning and white wine then stained.  It was a great start to a wicked chowder.

We've paired this with one of the simplest, fastest Blue Cheese Scallion Biscuit recipes I've ever come across, I was thrilled with the results.   The biscuits are light and fluffy in and loaded with blue cheese, sour cream and butter.  A sharp accompaniment to a creamy bowl of Old Fashioned Nova Scotia Seafood Chowder.

Wine paring suggestion:  I went with a bright, fruity riesling, which bounced of the cheese, the seafood and the cream beautifully opening the pallent and allowing all the brine of the sea to shine through.  

Old Fashioned Nova Scotia Seafood Chowder Recipe

Fish Fumé (prep time: 10 minutes, cooking time 45 minutes)

12 oz fish bones (or fish parts, cleaned of all blood)
4 inch piece of green leek, cut in half lengthwise
12 whole peppercorns
1 bay leaf
3 or four fresh parsley stems
3 sprigs of thyme (1/4 teaspoon dried thyme)
1 cup dry white wine
2 cups of water (enough to just cover the fish)

Chowder (prep time 20 minutes, cooking time 45 minutes)

3 tablespoons butter
2 onions, chopped
3 stalks of celery, finely chopped
3 tablespoons flour
12 red skinned baby potatoes, halved
3 cups of light cream
1 - 2 cups water (to taste)
1 (16 oz) fillet of haddock
1 medium sized (16 oz) fillet of salmon
8 - 12 scallops, cut in half (or quarters depending on size)
1 can cooked frozen lobster, thawed and drained
1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
3 tablespoons fresh parsley, coarsely chopped
salt to taste

Method:

Fish Fumé - 

1.  Clean and rinse bones and flesh of all blood using cold water.  Once water runs clear, reserve in cold water until ready.

2.  In a medium sauce pan add bones, leeks, thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns, white wine and enough cold water to cover the fish.   Bring to a boil then reduce heat to medium low and simmer, for 45 minutes.  DO NOT ADD SALT.  This is your base, it will reduce and therefore concentrate any flavours, including salt, season the chowder in its final stages instead.

3.  Remove from heat.  Let stand for 15 to 20 minutes.  Strain and reserve liquid.

Chowder - 

1.  In a large, heavy bottomed pot (or dutch oven) melt butter.  Add onions and celery and sweat over medium heat until onions are tender and transparent about 5 minutes.  Add salt, cayenne pepper and paprika and stir to mix.  Add flour, cook, stirring constantly for 2 minutes.

2.  Add fish fumé, and scrape any golden brown bits off the bottom of the pot so you get all that nice flavour in your chowder.  Add potatoes; add water as necessary to cover ingredients and raise above about an inch, then bring to a boil.  Reduce heat and simmer, stirring as needed until potatoes are tender, about 12 minutes.

3.  Stir in cream over a low simmer.  Add scallops and stir.   Add haddock & salmon fillets whole (with the salmon skin on, as above) resting on top of the chowder so you can monitor doneness.  The haddock will break apart naturally as it is cooked, this will keep it tender and flaky.  Allow the salmon to  poach whole, skin on, baisting it with the hot chowder base,  about 5 minutes.  Once the flesh is opaque, remove the fillet, gently peel off the skin and discard and return salmon fresh to the pot.

4.  Add lobster, stir in parsley and thyme.  Break apart any large chucks of fish with a wooden spoon.  Cook  at a low simmer about about 4 minutes until lobster is warmed through.  Taste for seasoning level and add salt as desired.

This is a recipe you can make ahead, store in an airtight container in the fridge, gently warm and serve the next day... when it's even better.

After a bowl of it don't be surprised if you star giving directions by time as opposed to distance, without any mention to street names and referencing landmarks that no longer exist. "Do you know where the big red barn used to be?  No?  It burned down in 1978, terrible fire..."   Among the things I found most endearing about Nova Scotia and it's people.  (Hope to see you soon Nova Scotia!)

Bundle up, stay warm and eat chowder.

You may notice that there is a differance in consistency from the top shot to this one. The top bowl is second day chowder, thicker and creamer.

Lobster Chili, you’ll be the hit of the tailgate party. MAN FOOD, with a refined twist (and buttery, garlicky, cheesy biscuits).

Ma Nature, sure knows her calendar.  September 1st, right on schedule, the nights began to cool.

Chef B calls from his kitchen “It’s cold, I’m making chili.”
“Not really in the mood for chili actually, too heavy."
“Well, you’ve never had my Lobster Chili...”  he says waiting for me to gasp “LOBSTER CHILI?! Whaaaaaat...?”
And that, my friend, is how he gets me every time.

If you’re new to Food Gypsy you may not be familiar with the comings and goings at the Gypsy Kitchen.  Chef B (Benoit Gelinotte) is the man in my life, a fancy-schmansy professional Chef and our Technical Director at Food Gypsy.  Which means; I run ideas by him and he either smiles and offers advice or his eyes bug out, he shudders and makes faces and gagging noises.

Sometimes, I don’t listen to him, I often later regret that.   After 20+ years in the kitchen, he’s usually right. (Something I’m sure he'll remind me of the time he ‘technically advises’.)

Chef B. at home, in the kitchen.

Once a month we trot down to Chef B's kitchen and he shares one of his favorite recipes with Food Gypsy readers. (for more, click on the Chef B tag in the right sidebar) This is his Lobster Chili, accompanied by Garlic Cheddar Biscuits from my kitchen.

(We have “his & hers” kitchens.)

And his Lobster Chili starts with --- chicken.  Allowing for a meat base that builds the chili flavour and extends your budget.  The lobster we add last, so it doesn't get tough.  The prefect bite has equal parts chicken and lobster in a slightly smokey, rich & spicy tomato, bean stew.

Another way to extend your budget (and save time in the kitchen): canned, frozen lobster.  Real claw & knuckle meat; it’s perfect for chilis and chowders for those of us who don’t have a ready supply of lobster at hand.  We like it because it’s quick and easy. Just as quick; lobster tails often on sale at your local fish counter – though often not as budget friendly.

If you take nothing else away from this post: Fire Roasted Tomatoes.  They’re a new favorite, for a hint of smoke in a tomato sauce.  Add them to a ragu, or use them as a base in a rosé cream sauce.  Beautiful.

 The other ‘secret ingredient’ from Chef B’s kitchen - liquid smoke.  If you have an aversion to additives by all means omit, but if you’re looking for robust flavour, a little dab will do ya’.   In this case, less is more or you will wind-up with smoked chicken instead of subtle smoke in your chili.

The prep time on this meal is less than 40 minutes, then your Lobster Chili can simmer while you do more important stuff (vacuuming, laundry, Facebook) before you add the finishing touches, bake some biscuits and enjoy a bowl of comfort and warmth.

The biscuits are based on my Grandmother’s recipe, which she clipped from a magazine.  It was yellow and tattered when I transcribed it years ago.

A few things I frequently borrow from her Irish heritage; oat cakes and baking powder biscuits.  I’m kind of addicted.  Amped these up because those Red Lobster people keep taunting me with biscuits in their commercials. (They should be banned.)

Great little biscuit trick: the shortening & butter is frozen and grated directly into the dry ingrediants.  This makes the fat easier to blend with the flour.  For fun, whipped up some garlic butter, froze it, cut it into small pieces and placed it on top of the cheddar biscuit dough.  The butter melted into the biscuit, basting them in butter and garlic.

Take that Red Lobster. 

Lobster Chili – Recipe

Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 2 hours minutes
Makes: 4 to 6 servings (how hungry are you?)

Ingredients:

8 chicken thighs (boneless, skinless) – cut into chunks
1 medium onion – chopped
5 cloves of garlic – diced
1 can fire roasted tomatoes
I cup tomatoes - chopped
1 can flageolet beans
3 stalks green onion, coarsely chopped
1 pound lobster meat – cut into small chunks
1 teaspoon paprika
3 tablespoons cumin
1 tablespoon chipotle powder
1 teaspoon liquid smoke
1 teaspoon Siracha sauce
1/4 cup cilantro leaves, coursely chopped
Salt & pepper to taste
1 tablespoon olive oil

Method:

1. In a large pot or cocotte, add oil and chicken thighs cut into chunks and sear over medium-high heat stirring frequently (about 5 minutes). Season with salt and pepper. Add onions and cook to transparent.
2. Reduce heat to medium. Add spices; cumin, paprika, stir to coat. Cook 2 – 3 minutes. Add garlic and liquid smoke and Siracha, cook for 2 – 3 minutes until garlic is transparent. Add water, to cover and scrape any reside from the sides and bottom into the sauce (that’s the good stuff). Add tomatoes, both canned and fresh. Reduce heat to lowest setting. Cover and allow to simmer until chicken is falling apart. About 90 minutes.
3. To finish: bring heat back up to medium, add green onions, cook 2 – 3 minutes.  Taste for seasoning.  Adjust as needed.  Add can of flageolet beans, cook for 3 – 5 minutes.  Add lobster meat and corriander, cook for 2 – 3 minutes.  Remove from heat.  Serve immediately.

Garlic Cheddar Biscuit - Recipe

Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 10 to 13 minutes
Makes: 12 to 14 biscuits

Ingredients:

• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 4 teaspoons baking powder
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt
• 1⁄4 cup frozen butter
• 1⁄4 cup frozen vegetable shortening
• 1/4 cup butter, room temperature
• 2 cloves garlic – finely minced
• 1/3 cup extra old, sharp cheddar cheese – grated
• ¼ cup green onion – finely sliced
• 1 cup milk

Method:

1. Combine garlic and soft butter in a small bowl with a spoon or spatula until thoroughly mixed. Turn garlic butter onto a piece of plastic wrap, fold plastic wrap over butter.  Flatten butter to approximately ¼ inch thickness and form a square. Freeze butter until hard (about 30 minutes)
2. Preheat the oven to 425*F.  Grease baking sheet with non-stick spray (or line with parchment paper).
3.  Measure flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl, whisk to combine.  Grate the frozen butter and shortening into the flour mixture and work through with fingers until evenly distributed.  Add cheddar and green onion, gently toss to blend with flour. (This mixture can stand at room temperature for up to two hours, covered with a clean cloth.)
4. Gently mix in milk until a loose dough forms, then turn dough onto a floured surface.
5. With hands, gently knead and shape the dough into a ball.  Flatten into a 3/4 to 1-inch thick disk.  Useing a lightly floured, round cutter cut dough into disks. Place disks on baking sheet. Gather up the scraps of dough, and press and cut into biscuits.
6. Remove frozen garlic butter from freezer. Cut into ½ inch square pieces.  Place a square of frozen garlic butter on top of each biscuit before baking.
7. Bake biscuits in the middle of the oven for 10 to 13 minutes, until puffed and golden.
8. Serve warm... with said chili.

Booze Ideas:

Opted for an easy drinking Cotes du Rhone.  In most cases, I avoid red with spicy seafood as it often leaves a metallic aftertaste.  But with a mixed seafood/meat dish and a spice/smoke compliment,  a light red worked well.   More options; Pinot Noir, Gamay, Sangiovese, Grenache or a simple Chianti.

For lovers of hops; try an ice cold Hoegaarden a white, wheat beer with citus-corriander undertones and enough chutzpah to stand up to Chef B's Lobster Chili.

Live.  Love.  Eat... well!

Housebound for weeks, up to the eyeballs with stuff that interrupts the merriment of dancing about tasting stuff.  I'm still a kid in the candy story in the national capital region.  I remain a resident-tourist; each new day, every new street and borough is a "gollll-ly, lookie what I found" experience.

"Want to stop for lunch?" asks my guy, out of the blue.
"Oh boy.  Could we?"  *looks around* "Where are we?"
*laughs, shakes head* "Westborough."
"OK, OH BOY." walks down street, climbs stairs behind man paying for lunch, sees sign on the door and shrieks "It's the Wellington!"
"Yea, I know it's on your list..."
"Yes it IS.  OH BOY."

This is, I fear, the way most conversations go with us.  Me with the enthusiasm of a four-year old on a sugar high, him urging me to use my 'inside voice'.

The Wellington Gastropub has been on my list for a number of reasons a) I love a good pub and b) I love a good pub with food that is something beyond your standard burgers/chicken wings fare.

It's easy to be comfortable and casual...

'The Wellie' (as it is known by those who love it) has a reputation for superlative food in an upscale pub atmosphere.   A broad selection of artisan brews, a solid wine list and specialty sodas, fresh brewed ice tea and lemon aid for those not imbibing; which (at this point) includes me.

I've heard mixed reviews on Wellington Gastro; most declare it the best thing since co-co puffs, while others believe it has an identity crisis; "am I a pub or am I a bistro?"  Why would the two be mutually exclusive?   Why not be both?   This calls for Gypsy investigation.

The day's menu, dieing to try the Black River 8 year cheddar.

Up the long staircase you pass a backboard list of tasty hop oriented beverages of all colours and varietals.  The ambiance is retro-hip with a clean finish.  The open beam ceiling, the funky sideboards housing service stations that were once employed in home kitchens, adorable chachka and a collection of vinyl behind the counter made me feel welcome in a big, bright, comfortably furnished room.

I am particularly fond of good chairs, a must in any pub.  The Wellington has great chairs,  I could spend considerable time in those chairs.

The menu is short and concise, changing daily to reflect the mood of the kitchen and seasonal produce; keeping the food fresh and interesting.  Hats off to fine, attentive service.  I believe three people waited on us throughout that meal, all smiling, informed and fast.

The Grilled Ribeye Sarnie (above) with chili and lime mayo, coleslaw and your choice of soup or salad was a big hit with my lunch date, Chef B.  He is a surprisingly picky eater, who is not a fan of coleslaw but he genuinely enjoyed the sandwich, finding it 'balanced and tasty" and the ribeye he sited as "grilled perfection".

The Pan Seared Fish Cake with Summer Squash, Leeks and Pea Shoots in a Tomato Curry Broth (below) did not fare as well with me.  Not that it was 'bad' by any stretch of the imagination; it was simply bland.  I found myself underwhelmed.

The broth had little flavor - how do you add curry and make something so flat?   I asked for salt, it is rare that I ask for salt.  Not an item I would order again.  That said; it was perfectly prepared.  The vegetables were slightly toothy, the salmon cake was crisp and the plate looked beautiful.

This is an opinion I shared with (one of) the attentive staff who (surprisingly) comped the dish.  I say surprisingly because I didn't send it back,  in fact I ate the whole thing then offered my thoughts (seeing as he asked) on my meal.

How an establishment handles criticism can truly set it apart.  Commitment to quality and customer satisfaction says to me: "the Wellington Gastropub values it's clients".  (They had me at retro vinyl.)

My companion is now encouraging me to voice all opinions, siting me as a  'cheap date', the menu can be a bit spendy I'll give him that.  (Wait till I get my drinking legs back Honey, save now.)

Things I like:  The Wellington has charm, and a certain 'quirk' - in that I find its identity.  Customers appreciate it for its delightful differences.  The draft beer taster looks like fun, a great way to test a new brew or four, and the wine list is robust.  I look forward to a night of 'sampling' followed by a cab ride.

Things I love:  The Wellington's tight menu and solid service.

I'll be back.  I heard there's ice cream.  OH BOY, can't wait.  I'll try to use my inside voice.

The Wellington Gastropub
1325 Wellington Street West
Ottawa, ON K1Y 3B6
RESERVATIONS: 613.729.1315
http://www.thewellingtongastropub.com/

Blood Orange Soda from the Dry Soda Company. Pop for big kids. Under sweet, light, fresh flavour and a fragrant nose. The prefect liquid on a hot summer afternoon, unless you consult my companion who insisted on drinking beer.

It’s called a peasant’s dish. 

 A one dish meal made from a bit pf chicken, a couple of links of sausage, whatever seafood you have on hand, an onion, a couple of tomatoes, a pepper or two, Cajun spice and a couple of cups of rice in one big pot on the back of the stove.  

It’s made with what you’ve got.
It’s made to feed a hungry brood on the Bayou.  Jambalaya goes a long way.   

In an all too brief trip to New Orleans some years ago, I developed a deep fondness for its people and their food.  Funny.  Kind.  Believers in cream, butter, pork fat, spice and great music.   

I’m glad to see New Orleans tourism recovering and the people of the city below sea level bouncing back once again.  On my life list is a return to New Orleans for Mardi Gras for one big party.   

But we can celebrate Mardi Gras anywhere!  Literally translating to ‘Fat Tuesday’, it is the feast before the sacrifice, the party before the purge.  The indulgence before Lent, 40 days of fasting and self-denial.  Personally, I’m fond of any festival that involves feasting and debauchery.  Followed by penance.   

Thought we would do a little Cajun tribute on Food Gypsy with a simple menu that includes a spicy Jambalaya and classic Beignets for some Louisiana heat and a bit of sugar.  No matter where in the world you may be.   

First up, a little Gypsy Jambalaya followed by Ben's Beignets de Carnival.   

Jambalaya is good, home cookin’ from Louisiana’s Cajun culture and among my favourite rice dishes.   

Made right it’s spicy, coated in rich tomato-based sauce, it should slide or 'slump' just slightly when presented on a plate or in a bowl, that's true south.   

Many use a “Cajun Spice” readily available in most supermarkets but as I avoid additives and preservatives whenever possible, this Gypsy recipe uses cayenne, paprika, chili and just a touch of thyme. It is after all influenced by the French.   

The French love their thyme.   

This is the first time I’ve paid very close attention to technique while cooking Jambalaya.  Searing and braising meats, checking liquid levels for the rice to ensure proper humidity and doneness, and adding tender shrimp just ten minutes prior to the end to ensure they were pink and perfect.   

It was a personal best.

It began with... sausage shopping.  Nothing says “I really like you” like your best guy (and Food Gypsy Technical Advisor, Chef Benoit) taking you sausage shopping. 

 Ottawa’s premier sausage house, The Sausage Kitchen on the Byward Market was out of Andouille sausage, the traditional favourite in Jambalaya.  A spicy smoke cured sausage, it’s what gives the dish its signature hint of smokiness that is so essential.  

In cuisine, there are no problems, only solutions.  So instead of the Andouille, Ben suggests a combination of Cajun Sausage and Hungarian Smoked Czabai.

The Czabai is a cooked smoked sausage unlike the smoke cured Andouille, so it requires no precooking, but the Cajun is an uncooked, herbed spicy sausage, rich and full of flavour.  With the combination of the two we were able to achieve combination of spice and smoke.  

 Sausage solutions.  That’s my kind of guy.   

I’m good with a poor man’s meal.  I can stretch a penny so far I can turn that sucker into copper wire and knit a stinking sweater.  I've had practice.   

Jambalaya is comfort food, it's one pot purity, it's love.

Spicy, Saucy Jambalaya Recipe

Ease of Preparation: Easy
Time: 2 hours
Serves: 6

Ingredients:

  Method: 

1. Combine spices (cayenne, paprika, chilli, thyme and salt) in large bowl.
2. Roll chicken pieces in spice mixture to lightly coat, remove and set aside.
3. Add shrimp to remaining spice mixture, toss to coat and set aside, chilled.
4. In large oven proof pot, heat 2 tablespoons of oil, then add seasoned chicken to sear the outside and seal in juices. Remove and let stand.
5. In same pot, add sausage and lightly sear. Remove and let stand. (If spices are burnt on the bottom of the pot, quickly rinse and remove all traces of burnt spice, this will help to avoid any unwanted bitterness. Never cook in a burnt pot.)
6. Return pot to heat and add 2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat. Add onions, peppers and tomatoes and sweat over medium heat until onions are transparent and peppers are tender.
7. Add butter, mix to coat.
8. Add chicken and sausage, submerge in vegetables and liquid, and cook, covered in preheated, 350* oven for 10 -15 minutes (or until vegetables are cooked & soft).
9. Remove from oven, add rice, stir into dish, coating well.
10. Add chicken stock and water and salt to taste. Cook covered in 350 degree oven for 30 minutes.
11. Remove from oven.  Check humidity levels and doneness of rice, and add additional stock or water if needed.  Add shrimp. Place back in oven, covered, and cook for 10 minutes or until rice is fully transparent and tender.
12. Remove from oven.  Let rest, without heat - covered - for 10 – 20 minutes.   

The rest period at the end of the cooking cycle allows all those bubbling juices to be absorbed by the rice and makes the difference between a good jambalaya and a GREAT jambalaya.   

This recipe is listed as easy, because it’s not technically difficult, but it is just a dish that requires a few extra steps in technique to execute it well, every time.   

Gypsy note: If you are not a lover of heat, reduce both the cayenne and chilli powder (paprika has little heat, it's mild and smokey). This dish has heat, it's supposed to, it's Cajun. I would give this a solid three out of five on the Gypsy heat-o-meter that's why it's called 'spicy'.   

Go... cook with love.

This... is not my hat. Happy Mardi Gras!

Cripsy & Sweet Coconut Shrimp

Anyway, like I was sayin', shrimp is the fruit of the sea. You can barbecue it, boil it, broil it, bake it, saute it. Dey's uh, shrimp-kabobs, shrimp creole, shrimp gumbo. Pan fried, deep fried, stir-fried. There's pineapple shrimp, lemon shrimp, coconut shrimp, pepper shrimp, shrimp soup, shrimp stew, shrimp salad, shrimp and potatoes, shrimp burger, shrimp sandwich. That- that's about it.   ~ Bubba, Forrest Gump

Recipe by reader request.  The fruit of the sea... coconut-ed.  So easy.  Try it at home.  Compliments of The Thirsty Turtle, Bananarama Dive's Eco Friendly Resort - West Bay Beach, Roatan Honduras.  Love the dipping sauce, the added coconut makes it sweet and slightly chewy.  EAT! 

Coconut Shrimp

1 cup flat beer
1 cup self-rising flour
2 cups sweetened coconut flakes
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
20 jumbo shrimp
coconut oil for frying

Orange Marmalade Dipping Sauce (see below)

Method:

1. Combine flour, beer, 1/2 cup coconut flakes, sugar and salt in a medium bowl. Mix well with electric mixer, cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
2. Prepare the shrimp by deveining and peeling off the shell back to the tail. Leave the last segment of the shell plus the tail as a handle.
3. When the batter is ready, preheat oil in a deep pot or deep fryer to about 350 degrees F. Use enough oil to cover the shrimp completely.
4. Pour the remainder of the coconut into a shallow bowl. Be sure the shrimp are dry before battering. Sprinkle each shrimp lightly with paprika before dipping in batter. Dip one shrimp at a time into the batter, coating generously.
5. Drop the battered shrimp into the coconut and roll it around till well covered. Fry four shrimp at a time for 2-3 minutes or until shrimp become golden brown. Flip the shrimp over halfway thru cooking time. Drain on paper towels.
6. Serve with one of the Marmalade Sauce (below) on the side. Serves 4.

Orange Marmalade Dipping Sauce

1/2 cup orange marmalade
2 teaspoons stone-ground mustard
1 teaspoon prepared horseradish

2 teaspoons shredded unsweetened coconut
1 dash of salt

Method:

1. Combine in a small bowl and refrigerate for at least one hour.

http://www.bananaramadive.com/

PesKAYitos Shrimp Tacos... you can't stop at just one...

Best shrimp tacos... EVER. Its bright orange you can’t miss it. Paskayitos serves one thing and one thing only, seafood.  So fresh it’s nearly wriggling.  

Throughout the spring and summer I’ve been junctioning out of Puerto Morelos, Mexico. This little tiny restaurant on Av. Javier R. Gomez, is among my favourites. It started with the shrimp tacos - lightly battered deep-fried shrimp that is sweet and juicy and not at all greasy.  

Paskayitos (and said shrimp tacos) came highly recommended by friends Rob & Joanne Birce who live and work in Puerto Morelos operating the AlmaLibre Bookstore http://www.almalibrebooks.com/ which is conveniently right around the corner from Paskayitos.  Thus began my addiction.  

There I was minding my own business, eating my shrimp tacos, when moans from other diners disturbed my lunch.  What on earth could they be moaning about?!  Fish Empanadas apparently. The fish empanadas are perfectly flaky and hot filled with beautifully spiced fish and tangy cilantro. We quickly became friends. (How can you not fall in with people who recommend amazing empanadas?)  Then they said... "try the ceviche!"  

Who could then resist the ceviche?  I'm particualry picky about ceviche and this complelty blew me away... great balance between the fish, the onion, the lime and the cilantro. It then became my favourite take out item.  

Until the guacamole.  

For fun... had a little cocktail party... no time to prepare so thought “hey I’m going to try the guacamole”. It took forever!  Just as I was standing there getting annoyed my waiter informs me they’re making it from scratch.  Ah-ha... that’s what all the chopping is about.
  

FRESH guacamole? I’ll take it.  

Creamy and smooth, with perky chunks of tomato and onion and just the right amount of chillies.  Happy days.  

Perhaps the best thing about Peskaytos is the sauces.  Make sure you get ALL the sauces try them out, mix and match. Ranch, Chipotle, Habanero (my favourite, made in-house), Creamy Curry and Thai Peanut.  

In short, I love this place.  Proud to be a regular when I’m in town; Perkaytos is always my first stop when I arrive in Puerto Morelos... and often my last stop too... right now I’m sitting here craving a shrimp taco.  No, ceviche. Wait... guacamole. OK, bring me one of everything!   And a Fanta...  

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g240327-d1434857-Reviews-PesKAYitos-Puerto_Morelos_Yucatan_Peninsula.html

The cuisine creator behind The Tempest Restaurant in Wolfville, Nova Scotia, Chef Michael Howell knows seafood.  Growing up in Chester, Nova Scotia, and graduate of the Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago, his travels spanned large chunks of the globe for 20 years, Chef Howell has a particular sensitivity to the fruits of the sea. 

I first saw Chef Howell on an episode of “Opening Soon” on Food Network Canada’s watching as he and his wife, and partner, Mary Harwell  built The Tempest from the ground up.  Many years later, I found myself, a new resident of Nova Scotia, in his restaurant enjoying his food and becoming an even bigger fan of the ease with which he creates.  

His first cookbook, Atlantic Seafood showcases 50 recipes, with Howell’s unique approach and attention to detail, all beautifully photographed with easy to follow directions.  

Admittedly, some of the recipes are advanced for the armature cook.  Which is exactly why I bought it.   I like a challenge in the kitchen. I enjoy the process of taking a completely new technique and learning as I go.   Sometimes that ends in complete disaster (read: smoke, temper tantrums, tears, take-out) but I will go at something until I get it right and Chef Howell inspires me with Atlantic Seafood ---he makes me want to learn. 

For my money, the best parts of the book are the little asides profiling each seafood and its unique properties, how Howell likes to approach each one and why.  It makes for a more personal read, admission to the kitchen if you will.  

A stunningly beautiful cookbook to add to your collection. Atlantic Seafood, Recipes from Chef Michael Howell, from Nimbus Publishing.  Available at select bookstores, Amazon.ca, The Tempest Restaurant and The Tempest booth at the Wolfville Farmer’s Market - $24.95 (CAD)  Traveling Nova Scotia?   Here's Food Gypsy’s take on The Tempest Restaurant - Wolfville, Nova Scotia.   Take your appetite.  

Atlantic Seafood, a taste of Nova Scotia, in your kitchen.